Quote:
Originally Posted by Bleakley
What he said. Highway speeds you shouldn't need your fans.
What temp sensor are we using? OEM or aftermarket? (And I saw your post about the discrepancy between the PFC And EVDM. Go by the PFC for now with the lower reading).
With everything you're telling me. And if those fans are really pulling air like that, I'm wondering if you're system is fine and you're just getting fake news / false Intel.
Do not drop to a colder thermostat. That's poor practice and unnecessary. OEM one is just fine.
Also, Have we used infrared on the SR water outlet to compare that reading with the gauges?
I really don't think you should have to be this intrusive, but at the end of the day if everything else is proving out, maybe we wanna pop that water pump and have a looksee...
EDIT: Also. You never stated you actually verified the thermostat. Just that it was brand new and you threw it in. I would verify the temps of when it cracks and when it fully opens so I know whereabouts my temps should fall. They should be within like 5° of that I think.
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So if we are going with PFC degree I’m sitting at 85-90’C (highway/ on off boost/ efans on/ heater on blast) if anything i wouldn’t have to have any of these parameters on in order to maintain a stable temp. Still gets me that most are staying 80-82’C is their norm and i can guarantee they aren’t running the heater on etc.
I didn’t verify the thermo. because it was new, i know it wouldnt hurt to check, but based on my description the lower hose gets hot at or around the temp the OEM thermo opens. So i assume it works, if it was cold as compared to the upper rad hose at 180-190ish then i would say that that would be an issue, but that isn’t the case. Hot lower hose would indicate the thermo opening.
Inspecting Water pump ... what would I be looking for? Normally when the water pump goes out it’s because of a leak and as mentioned before I haven’t seen a drop of coolant.
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