Big update!
So I have been driving this car alot, no issues with anything so far. I recently drove in Lone Star Drift's Special Stage Australia event in Houston. I knew I wouldn't win, and I was not comfortable enough in this car at that track to compete so I didn't. The car did GREAT though. The track was tight and super technical requiring a handfull of e-brake drags and dozens of clutch kicks to connect the track on a good line with stock KA power. This was extremely fun! I had never driven on a real track where line mattered so this was a great change of pace for me. I was forced to learn e-brake entries and my white bunny clutch got the shit beat out of it for dozens of laps and I never had a single issue with anything on the car the whole weekend.
Before this event, I was still having weird idle issues and after shorting out a wire to my ignition switch causing the car to sit with no battery for 2 weeks, all of a sudden my car would die every time I pressed the clutch while I was not stopped. When I stopped idle would come up to a low idle of 500rpm and shake the whole car. This was super frustrating and forced me to finally buy something every 240sx owner should have, a consult scanner that plugs into a laptop. I bought the EEEKit from Amazon and I'm using the free Conzult software that came with it to read my sensor outputs and timing, RPM, etc to fix these phantom issues I have been having and once I got the scanner, the solutions came fast.
The consult scanner said my O2 sensor signal was 0.0v..... and my TPS was adjusted wrong.
When I extended the O2 sensor wire on my engine harness that was chewed by rats, I peeled back the shielding, soldered a regular wire onto the existing wire for the O2 sensor and then laid the shielding over it and applied shrink-wrap to the area then plugged it into my new Bosch O2 sensor and everything seemed great.
I got a hold of Martin @ RSEnthalpy and he gave me some golden information about that O2 sensor wire shield. The shielding wire weave is actually grounded in the ECU, so when that shielding touches the signal wire, you have a grounded signal. So I repaired that mistake and the O2 sensor started reading perfectly as FSM states. This repair caused my idle to change and the car started running ALOT better! Martin told me to adjust my TPS to 0.5v with the throttle closed, so I did that and then adjusted ignition timing and IACV until I was happy with all of the results and now the car runs like a champ all the time. It starts instantly and has never made a single sputter or done anything but run perfectly every single time I drive the shit out of it.