Quote:
Originally Posted by miklos
Do you mean the locknuts with the blue on the inside of them? Do you think Loctite would work?
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Yes, loctite would work - but why not just use lock washers?
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4le
*epic post*
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This post hurt to read, because I know you're smart
There is no "caster" setting in the rear, it's not adjustable. The adjustment that I think you're talking about is via the traction arm, but instead of giving you "dynamic camber" (meaning your camber curve changes with suspension travel), the traction arm changes your toe curve. Most people leave this arm stock, there's not any adjustment that needs to be done there.
There is no dynamic camber in the rear - the camber you set on the rack is the camber it has all the way through the travel range - what changes is toe, but not enough to make the car feel the way you're describing.
Yes, 3*+ of camber in the rear is going to be detrimental to your driving performance in every way possible - accelerating, turning, and braking, in that order. I'm glad you pulled your fenders to 'eyeball' a lower camber adjustment, but by changing ride height and camber, you changed your toe. That toe change (and possibly an uneven camber one side to the other) is what you feel most likely in the back.
As far as the "feels great drifting", this is probably because your front is setup well. You'll notice a big difference in speed when the rear is set up correctly also - instead of spinning on entry, you hook, and don't spin until you initiate.
Oh, and the geometry that's
still not addressed is roll center, which your sway bars try to compensate for, but when you're as low as you're describing (low enough so your LCAs are parallel to the ground or even point upwards on the outsides), roll center becomes a larger problem.
Hopefully this helps
