[R3b]

Originally Posted by derass

are you talking about the little wire, or the big wire going to the starter?

Little wire

Originally Posted by derass

i think something's wrong with your battery relocate, or grounds. the starter doesn't need a relay. it's already wired directly to the battery.

Battery relocation is fine, 0 resistance to grounds in the trunk or connections on the engine bay side, have a grounding kit from WS.

The starter doesnt need a relay from factory but as per fsm the line of power goes from ignition key barrel to either the interlock switch on auto chassis or to the clutch/interlock relay on the passside fender then once either is switched because its more of a "safety" thing to stop you starting in gear then the starter wire off the starter gets 12v off the key turning

What I am saying since the starter itself is fine and this is an issue in that system outside of the battery because if I jump the starter from the battery wire in the engine bay to the little starter wire plug it cranks over perfect.

SO there is something from the key to the relays then from there to the starter wire that is the issue or should I add a relay to the system just as you do for the fuel pump rewire because ya know 25 year old wires vs one wire directly off the source.

Originally Posted by derass

is the car a sohc with a dohc, or sr? if so, someone would have had to do some starter wiring behind the glovebox. the F2 or F11 connector. I forget the actual code. everyone just calls it the dash plug. problem might be there. that connection is between the key and starter

Car afaik is an auto chassis with DOHC, it has the sterotypical wire bridge for the interlock relay aka "starter" relay from doing the 5 speed swap before I got the car. Im going to check to see if that plug with the wire bridge isnt getting resistance.