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There are two kinds of traction control systems I am aware of
One is reducing power for traction
the other is increasing traction with no loss of power
Usually you go with the first one because its alot easier to reduce power. If the engine is DBW this is how factory cars do "traction control" in a majority of situations is simply reduce throttle position. The engine can also be made to accelerate more smoothly using a gradual throttle opening program which helps traction as well.
Which brings us to the subject of boost control. If traction is an issue and you don't have DBW the next best thing is boost control. Use a controller that will allow you to assign duty cycle VS speed conditions (stand-alone like haltech, and apexi avcr are some familiar units) and you would dial in the boost ramp so the tires don't spin.
Finally there are many ways to pull timing for torque reduction. Simply reduce timing in the areas of the map where you are having wheel spin.
If your goal is to improve traction without reducing power this is still done in conjunction with a mild boost ramp and other tricks as to not "shock" the tire with sudden torque. You want the torque to come in gradually. The best way to increase dry traction without reducing power is to use a better tire. Plenty of cars launch just fine that go 5 seconds or whatever with the right tire. If you are stuck with street tires there are two other small options. One is weight transfer mechanisms which involves suspension design to help put the weight of the vehicle "into" the rear tire so it doesn't spin. The other is once moving, downforce is an option to help plant the rear at higher speeds, but it consumes power.
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