View Single Post
Old 07-03-2018, 09:33 PM   #6
Kingtal0n
Post Whore!
 
Kingtal0n's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: South Florida
Age: 41
Posts: 4,828
Trader Rating: (17)
Kingtal0n has a reputation beyond reputeKingtal0n has a reputation beyond reputeKingtal0n has a reputation beyond reputeKingtal0n has a reputation beyond reputeKingtal0n has a reputation beyond reputeKingtal0n has a reputation beyond reputeKingtal0n has a reputation beyond reputeKingtal0n has a reputation beyond reputeKingtal0n has a reputation beyond reputeKingtal0n has a reputation beyond reputeKingtal0n has a reputation beyond repute
Send a message via AIM to Kingtal0n
I've never even seen an mil go on in any car. Except my most recently one because I programmed it to go on when trans temp > 190*F but thats another thing.

My point being the 62 ecu is so simple you really don't need an MIL for the majority of the time, there are only like 2 parts that can really cause major issues on (89-02) sr20 swaps. (maf and ecu typically the only two annoying bad items and both are rare) the rest of the stuff is super easy from basic intuition. such as knowing the cas trigger the fuel relay when you turn the motor by hand slightly thus verifying at least the optical pickup inside is good. Then checking the timing pulls the entire ignition system into question with one simple, a mandatory test anyways. compression is done via compression test. Then fuel pressure test is the fuel side.

All thats left is the maf and ecu as potential carriers. TPS and O2 are not important and won't screw you if they are bad or missing. And through the spark / timing test you verified the pickup(cas) and optical unit (cas). So whats left to throw a code for? There is like literally nothing besides a maf code or "ecu code" (no response from computer at all) that I could think of as being useful, and by process of elimination we can tell that the computer is turning on, leaving only the maf.

Most sr20 problems aren't in the computer/MIL side of things anyways. In a swap the #1 overlooked and #1 most important thing is a boost leak pressure test.
Do this to every car, every single time. No excuses. If the air is leaking out, besides screwing the maf and potentially washing your oil with fuel, enough of a boost leak will cause a high exhaust gas pressure and high IAT which will lead to engine destruction.
Kingtal0n is offline   Reply With Quote