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aled · 06-10-2011, 12:05 PM

Oil Cooler Setup.

First off, when I first began my research on this swap in general, I read over and over again how important it was to spend the money on quality cooling parts. At any rate, once I felt my water system was stout, I moved onto to research oil cooling systems.

Now, the 1JZ in my case, and the 2JZ utilize a factory oil cooling system. Water is plumbed through the filter housing and cools the oil. Nonetheless, many have found this system inefficient for track use and opted for an external radiator type cooler.

Literature:

This is a great thread to go through here on zilvia:
http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/225223...er-setups.html

Read the PDF file, very informative and clear pictures:
My take on an Oil Cooler Install

This is the thread I based most of my purchases off of:
Installing a Full Flow, Thermostat Controlled Oil Cooler & Remote Filter

My Personal Setup:
- Setrab Oil Cooler, Spal 6" Fan
- Canton Block Adapter
- Remote Oil Filter Housing
- Remote Earl's Oil Thermostat
- -10 AN Lines
- (6) -10 AN, Straight Fittings
- (2) -10 AN, 45 Degree
- (2) -10 AN, 90 Degree
- (4) 1/2" NPT, Straight to -10 AN Male
- (4) -10 AN, Male Couplers
- (2) -8 AN to - 10 AN (These are not necessary for every setup; my oil cooler from Setrap happened to be -8 AN Fittings

Once you understand how to search for fittings on Summit or Jegs, it's a breeze. For example to find a -10 AN Hose End, search: "Fitting, Straight, -10 AN, Hose End"

Cost:
$550, all fittings, hose, plates, and thermostat were purchased from Summit Racing; the oil cooler was purchased 2nd hand off a Zilvia seller.

As the SupraMania thread alludes to, there are several different setups. A more economical one for example would be a block adapter that houses the oil filter, but also contains a thermostat.

(1) Oil flows from the Canton adapter to the "IN" on the Filter Housing
(2) "Out" the Filter Housing to the Thermostat
- There are 4 Fittings for the thermostat (From Engine, To Engine, From OC, to OC)
(3) If the oil temperature is -160 Degrees, oil will be routed back to the engine
(4) If the oil temperature is +160 degrees, oil will flow to the cooler
(5) From the cooler, back into the thermostat
(6) Thermostat back to the Canton adapter on the block

Hope this helps.
I will document my actual installation.

06-10-2011, 12:05 PM	#34
aled Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Chesterfield, MO Age: 33 Posts: 334 Trader Rating: (17)	Oil Cooler Setup. First off, when I first began my research on this swap in general, I read over and over again how important it was to spend the money on quality cooling parts. At any rate, once I felt my water system was stout, I moved onto to research oil cooling systems. Now, the 1JZ in my case, and the 2JZ utilize a factory oil cooling system. Water is plumbed through the filter housing and cools the oil. Nonetheless, many have found this system inefficient for track use and opted for an external radiator type cooler. Literature: This is a great thread to go through here on zilvia: http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/225223...er-setups.html Read the PDF file, very informative and clear pictures: My take on an Oil Cooler Install This is the thread I based most of my purchases off of: Installing a Full Flow, Thermostat Controlled Oil Cooler & Remote Filter My Personal Setup: - Setrab Oil Cooler, Spal 6" Fan - Canton Block Adapter - Remote Oil Filter Housing - Remote Earl's Oil Thermostat - -10 AN Lines - (6) -10 AN, Straight Fittings - (2) -10 AN, 45 Degree - (2) -10 AN, 90 Degree - (4) 1/2" NPT, Straight to -10 AN Male - (4) -10 AN, Male Couplers - (2) -8 AN to - 10 AN (These are not necessary for every setup; my oil cooler from Setrap happened to be -8 AN Fittings Once you understand how to search for fittings on Summit or Jegs, it's a breeze. For example to find a -10 AN Hose End, search: "Fitting, Straight, -10 AN, Hose End" Cost: $550, all fittings, hose, plates, and thermostat were purchased from Summit Racing; the oil cooler was purchased 2nd hand off a Zilvia seller. As the SupraMania thread alludes to, there are several different setups. A more economical one for example would be a block adapter that houses the oil filter, but also contains a thermostat. (1) Oil flows from the Canton adapter to the "IN" on the Filter Housing (2) "Out" the Filter Housing to the Thermostat - There are 4 Fittings for the thermostat (From Engine, To Engine, From OC, to OC) (3) If the oil temperature is -160 Degrees, oil will be routed back to the engine (4) If the oil temperature is +160 degrees, oil will flow to the cooler (5) From the cooler, back into the thermostat (6) Thermostat back to the Canton adapter on the block Hope this helps. I will document my actual installation.