I'm back again, still working on this project on my spare time.
So some things I've done:
- Got the needed connector terminals.
- Wired up the "room lamp output" while I had the dash out (finally decided to wire up the AC door mode motor correctly for my digital climate control.)
- Wired up part of the relay system.
- Attempted to wire up the antenna input.
First, the connector terminals.
From researching there is one other connector on our dash harness that uses the same two types of terminals. F3. This connector is on the passenger side kick panel behind the ECU.
Fortunately, Wiring Specialties sells this connector and it's terminals. Unfortunately they don't sell the terminals separate. When I ordered the part it was $55. So that was a hefty price. The connector itself is bigger then the M20 connector. So it will include plenty enough terminals in case of mistakes.
Room Lamp Output
There is a four-pin harness connector under the dash directly south of the passenger tweeter/A-Pillar, this includes the wire going to the top interior lamp.
I'm sure it meets somewhere next to the fusebox. But I'm not sure where. so this connector was the easiest solution for me to splice into.
Relays
From the factory the keyless entry system uses two relays, one is a two-relays-in-one, the other is a "normally closed" relay.
The wiring diagram shows the first relay is used to apply voltage to the turn signals. This can spliced anywhere in the turn signal wiring, the front turn signals, the rear turn signals, and the hazard switch.
The second relay breaks the circuit for the turn signal stalk, I'm not sure why. Maybe for the voltage don't go back up the system.
For now I decided to install the turn signal relay part in the trunk on the driver-side. I used two relays for this, ran one wire to the back from the keyless entry module "flasher output" (this is the coil ground), the (coil power) to my battery for power with a fuse. The other two wires to LH, and RH turn signal wires.
Antenna
I bought a radio antenna splicer adapter for I could isolate the second antenna path. I also verified my rear window circuit wasn't broken by redoing parts of it. I ran this wire to the antenna.
Unfortunately I can't seem to get this to work and I don't know how to test it.
According to the Japanese FSM, the keyless antenna is at the bottom of the rear windshield. So you would have 3 different terminals on the rear windshield. Top (1) is for the factory radio (don't know why it needs two radio antennas), (2) is the defroster, and (3) is for keyless.
Other notes- By default, without the passenger door "closed" signal wired up, the module will always think the door is closed.
- Also, without wiring up the driver and passenger doors lock signal, the module will think the doors is always locked.
- I can get the keyless module into programming mode by closing all the doors, inserting/removing the key 6 times to get the "flasher output" to flash a few times. But the remote I bought does nothing. At this point (with the system thinking the doors is locked) the remote should program (by flashing the turn signals again) but it's not. So I'm thinking it doesn't like my antenna wiring, or I bought the wrong remote.
The remote I bought was the KOBUTA3T which said it was for the Nissan 95-98 200SX 240SX, and 97-99 Altima.
So my current plans is this now:
- Redo the antenna wiring, I ordered a newer nissan/infinity keyless antenna that I'm going to try to see if I can get it work.
- Still look into an alternative method for the door lock/unlock signal. I'm thinking about either implement a manual switch (metal spring), or bolting on a tiny endstop switch to either inside the door module, or at the end of the metal rod for the lock.
Once I get more going on this project, I'll upload the pictures I took of today's update.