Quote:
Originally Posted by CamryOnBronze
OK, a couple of questions for you guys. I removed the head and had it decked, replaced the timing chain and front cover, dropped the head gasket, head, and studs on, etc.
1. The shop that did the head removed the rocker arms, oil squirters, and the small spacers that sit on the vale spring retainers. The valve/valve spring assemblies were not removed or anything- just the stuff on top that was loose and could fall out when the head was turned upside down to surface it.
Each rocker arm has two small round metal spacers that it sits on top of, in addition to the oil squirter. One of these spacers has a groove for the rocker arm to sit in, and the other is flat. Does the grooved spacer on each rocker arm face towards the front of the engine or the rear? Does it matter? I assume that it does, so I wanted to ask to be sure.
2. When I went to reinstall the crank pulley, it is about an inch away from the second notch on it- where we assured it was when we pulled the head. How screwed am I? I have no idea how it would have moved during this process, but obviously that is an issue. Currently the cam shafts are not installed because I am going with Tomei poncams. Before I install the cams, should I turn the crank pulley to the second notch? Will this somehow cause the valves to smack a piston?
I am really embarassed to say this has happened. I honestly have no idea what could have caused this. I feel like turning the crank pulley/crank an inch WITHOUT the cams installed would not hurt anything, but at the same time I am worried this will cause engine threatening issues. Thanks in advance for the feedback- I'd like to finish installing the camshafts tonight, assuming I haven't screwed anything up too bad.
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1) intake side the guide (grooved shim) goes in front, exhaust side it goes rear. or it could be visa versa, i dont remember 100%. also every single one needs to go back exactly where it came from as other have already said, or youre going to need to measure them (which is a PITA). get an FSM.
2) crank needs to be TDC on #1. 2nd dot from the left on the pulley.
3) you can spin the crank with the cams out as all the valves will be closed. since youve already done this, youre not going to be able to use the marks on the chain for timing as youll never know when the gold link is on the crank dot. check out enthalpy's website for timing instructions without the marks. with cams in if youre not 100% sure that the timing is right dont spin it. sr's are interference. you will bend valves.