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I have no experience taking the crank pully off.....
As far as shims and guides, as aNskY said, the shims and guides really should go back onto the EXACT same places they came off of.
on the ARPs, I am not sure which ones you have. Some people have gotten "the new" SR20 ones which "supposedly" are 105 ft-lbs.
I ordered mine from FRSport, and they sell VW studs, which I believe everyone with SR20 used before ARP started making SR-specific studs.
For the VW ones, I applied the supplied lube to the threads of the stud (top and bottom), to both surface of the washer, and also to the threads and bottom surface of the nut.
I put the studs in hand tight with an allen key, and then I did them in the proper sequence in increments....I believe I did 30-60-85 or something.
Then drove the car for a while, took cams off (I left my OEM cams on for a bit, knowing I would be taking them off shortly to replace with HKS) and retorqued the headstuds to 85......they DID actually take a little bit more rotation to get to 85 on the second time around.
Hope that helps
If the shop took them everything off and didn't label it, then this is not good.
Each valve, shim, guide, and rocker arm should go back into the same spot from which it was removed.....
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Daily driven
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