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Old 09-16-2018, 01:02 PM   #14
zaneithan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingtal0n View Post
My 1 suggestion is to clean everything spotless while you have it off. That dust contaminates every part and a clutch spends its life throwing that stuff off just to have it gradually creep back in and muddle things up nearing/accentuating the end of its life. I usually pressure wash then take a rag with brake cleaner to really get in there, especially the input shaft grooves go through them with a sharp pick.

When everything is clean go back over it with a coat of Molybdenum sulfide lubricant (the FSM will say to use this) on parts, especially input shaft where clutch slides, pivot ball and anywhere you could get rust (steel exposed parts)

I especially coat the throwout bearing where it contacts the pressure plate.


2. Comments
Exedy was a great help when I was having similar issues (had multiple clutch plates and diaphgrams and didn't know what to use or which one was good) they had me send the plate in for a pressure test etc... and recommended the correct parts to buy that would work with their setups. The guy knew some very interesting details about the sr20det configurations, for example some years got thicker discs or something. He was able to tell just from a picture which one I had too. Its all very confusing to me but they seemed to know exactly what I needed so I have a feeling they will set you right.
Thanks for the tips. Everything will be cleaned/greased and I'll also be replacing some of the components with brand new OEM while I'm at it (TOB, Fork, pivot ball (going Nismo), sleeve). I'd like to avoid dropping the transmission again in the near future so might as well take care of all when i have it off and am diagnosing/taking care of this problem.
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1993 240sx fastback (wrecked)
1991 240sx SE fastback Daily Driver status
1992 240sx fastback (???)
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