Quote:
Originally Posted by 0wn3r
you can try cleaning your MAF, it may help slightly, though I still ran into an issue the other day where it was dropping and stalling out when warm...usually it's clutch in and braking it will stall
i'm recirc
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I will definitely try this. I don't think I've ever cleaned my maf. Thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by landins13
this happends to a lot of large turbo sr20's you can fix it if your car has a legit tune, not just a rom flash, ie, apexi, nistune, aem, hks fcon, those sort of programs are fine tunable enough to stop the problem, honestly your going to have to catch the throttle when your driving the car. down shift as far as you can so 5-4-3-2-1 and when the car almost stalls out push in the clutch and rev the throttle a little,
the car should balance out, it just cant handle the drop from 4-5k to 1k in rpm
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I agree with you, but I have a couple friends running very similar setups with no issues at all. I think enthalpy's tune is off on the low end. I need to get a wideband when $ comes around. Today I reconnected the safc2 and reset the decel and it helped out a lot. I think the combination of cleaning the iacv multiple times, retightening couplings, and resetting the decel air function has my car in better shape than its been in awhile. I will take it out for a more thorough test this weekend to see.
Quote:
Originally Posted by slider2828
Yeah, I would also check for more small leaks as well. You can try closing your IACV and the screw for the throttle plate where the throttle wheel rests on, turn it in so when the plate is fully closed there is still a sliver of air going into your intake for idle.....
Check and redo your grounds too! This is going to be a biggy, if you step on the break and notice some fluctuations like light flickering and stuff... redo grounds with 2 gauge monster cables.... Those will definitely help.
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I messed around with the throttle set screw and iacv screw a lot but it didnt help with the stalling. I will double check the grounds though, thanks for the suggestion!
Quote:
Originally Posted by singlecamslam
i have a similar problem. when i put it in neutral after a drive the car will die. I know its my IACV, the way i checked it was i took the hose that goes to the IACV from the cold pipe and twisted it closed, and my idle got much better. I dont know if that will help.
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Hmmm I've been reading and reading about the IACV and understand some of how it works (ie. cold start pulling air until coolant opens the next valve) but I don't understand what effect closing off that hose you mentioned has. I will add it to my check list though, thanks.