Quote:
Originally Posted by Johannes
I have a similar setup to this. Think rotating the pillowball mounts/caster/camber plates so that it faces fwd & outboard, will be enough to reduce caster on a trailing spindle?
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Depending on how much caster you want to run, yes. It won't get you the big lock flat contact patch, but it will help offset it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pimpnyou204
So question I know your castor helps determine your self steer the higher it is the more it will. Now for those with mixed matched steering setup (PSM limitbreak LCA extended maybe 45mm(?) from stock, stock knuckle, q45 rods). Where is your determined good castor set up. Currently I'm on origin type 4 fenders (75mm). Got an alignment basically sitting at .5 toe out 1(?) castor and like 8 degree camber. Yes I know crazy camber I asked for it to be less, guy didn't listen. Strut tops are normal castor and at 3/4 postive camber. Obviously I have steering bind at full lock and the car turn the wheel a quarter your taking a hard right.
Basically what I am asking is if moving the strut top forward, to bring castor up is gonna help with bind and clearance issues I have and how the alignment I have with what I have is adequate or should be adjusted when I take it back to pull the camber back in. 18x 9.5 +12 in front so space is a bitch at full lock. I know the steering rack offset will help with bind but will the top mount castor allow for more clearance at full lock?
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Reducing caster will help with bind. Clearance issues will depend on where you adjust the caster at and where you're having issues. First you need to figure out what your actual caster is though, as 1 is nowhere near correct, and would be very hard to achieve.
It's all a balancing act, but stock knuckle ackerman is going to limit the amount of lock you can get before binding, especially if you're not running offset tie rod mounts or the rack forward.