Quote:
Originally Posted by drifter92
Using a timing light eliminates the possibility of being "a tooth off"
I am so tired of hearing this, please if I am mistaken correct me, when you stab a distributor correctly, you remove the cap and make sure the rotor is pointed at spark plug wire #1 when the distributor is stabbed fully, and that the distributor is in the center of the adjustment range. I have done this 100 times and never had an issue. Then, later, I go back with a timing light when its running and move it to 20 BTDC and its always damn close before any movements.
What I am saying with this engine is I am using a timing light, and it wont run well at 20 BTDC because of a sensor or something pulling timing so when I move it to 20 BTDC with the engine warmed up it tries to die and then it wont start at 20 BTDC because of that issue. It will only start again if I move the distributor to the "wrong" location again, and no amount of sensor unplugging corrects the stumble problem.
When I hold throttle at 5%, the engine revs itself up and down like the video, and it seems like its breaking up and doing weird shit which causes the RPM drops, then whatever happened gets better and it revs up again.
|
Yeah sounds to me like if it won't run when it is showing 20* btdc then your mechanical timing is off.. Post those pics of your cam timing with all of the timing marks on the cams, idler, and crank pulley gears lined up with the timing chain colored links with cyl #1 @ tdc so we can take a look.
Sent from mTalk