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Old 04-24-2016, 10:57 PM   #32
lucas13dourado
Leaky Injector
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Seattle
Age: 36
Posts: 124
Trader Rating: (2)
lucas13dourado is an unknown quantity at this point
Guys, sorry there have been no updates, a bunch of crazy shit happened at work and I was freaking out so I didn't touch the car and it just sat for about 6 months. Now things have calmed down and I am ready to get back to working on it! So here is an update.

I got my ass kicked by the tube front, measuring a 3 dimensional space is the most difficult thing I have ever done.. And only having a tig welder makes things pretty interesting when welding at very awkward angles.



This is the shot to the factory frame rails, mine are f'ed since the car has been in quite a few crashes. This was the most difficult part to weld and not blow through



Then I set off to make the hood pins and radiator support, this is when my OCD started to cringe. I tried my best, but from side to side it's uneven which means things are not completely symmetrical. It took me a good 7 hours to make both side hood pins, and another 4 hours to make the radiator support, which after all said and done did not fix the headlights correctly.. So rather than re-making it, I just said screw it and cut the headlights to fit (thank got I dont do this for a living)



I also ordered the CXracing aluminum upper radiator hose. Seen here







Then it was time to make the throttle cable work. My engine came with a cut jzx100 cable, so I took the factory cable and measured from the firewall to the cut section on the existing cable and cut it. Then on the inside I just used bycicle brake cable stops, I don't like the look, but it should do the trick. If all goes to hell I am going to weld a washer to the end of it.



I don't like that the brake booster nipples comes out of the wrong side in the JZs, I know everyone just routes the hose that way and calls it good, I decided to cut the nipple off and flip it to the drivers side.
I also trimmed the coolant lines that run through the idle air control valve.



I mounted the oil cooler where it used to be, except flipped it inward because I had to get rid of my powered by max high mount intercooler since it no longer fit (I was pretty bummed out), so I had this intercooler laying around, it's enormous but it will have to do. If you note I drilled a hole and welded a nut to the factory cross rail so I can bolt the FMIC on it. I also routed the lines, cut them and attached the AN fittings, they go to my thermostatic oil cooler sandwich adapter whatever you call it thing, and yes, I will use a NISSAN oil filter haha







Next was intercooler pipes, I had some stuff laying around, but had to order some stuff, once it arrived cut and welded it. The guys sent me the wrong coupler (blue instead of black....god damn idiots). I will be runnning my old synapse bov. Later i will try to polish up the pipes so they look clean.





Then lastly, the intake. what I did was I cut the factory turbo intake plenum deal and just cut it right at the entry of the turbo, took some bent piping and put the air filter just behind the bumper, I may have to run one of those air filter water sock things when it rains (hope I remember)



Sorry it took so long!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Heywood Jablomie View Post
Is your trans internal or external slave cylinder? The mavericks guy told me I would not need the concentric slave cylinder spacer using the full kit but I have a significant gap between my throw out bearing and clutch diaphragm.
Sounds like you got this solved, I am running the last version of the external slave version. I would have no problem running the internal slave type though! They are equally a pain in the dick to bleed so it doesn't matter haha.
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