Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingtal0n
I know people are going to come into this thread and tell you otherwise, however I feel it is my responsibility to alert you to this,
The factory RB25 engine you have there is not very stout. I would not change the computer, or upgrade anything on the engine for that matter. I have been able to destroy that engine with only 10-12psi from the OEM turbocharger in the past, several of them. The piston rings seem fragile, more than an SR20's rings for some reason.
I see you having low compression on several cylinders in the near future if you turn up the boost to anything more than 12psi, and having to replace the engine. And if you attempt a rebuild you will probably fail at it; these are just unfortunate facts from years of experience.
My advice is to leave the boost at 7-8psi and enjoy the car like that (with a proper fuel pump). If you want more than 8psi, that is, 12psi~ I recommend you upgrade your injectors, and go the SAFC route. Yes the SAFC is a band-aid and a "bad idea" In general, however, with only 12psi you should be safe, and furthermore it will save you the hassle/time/cost of going the stand-alone tuning route. If you retard the timing at the CAS about 2-3* and keep using only good 93 octane fuel the engine should survive for a while.
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Just curious, but do you always post completly useless and incorrect information?
people are going to say otherwise because you're 100% wrong. stop posting this non sense.
Stock Bottom end RB25's are known to hold 500whp without issue.
When they do fail, generally from a shitty tune or pushing the limits to far (600whp+) they don't break the actual piston rings, the pistons ringlands generally crack and it looses compression.
FYI, i pushed 12psi on a stock RB25 turbo with a Greddy intake and a FMIC thru STOCK S14 exhaust with a stock fuel pump, regulator and ECU. My car made 275whp and had a 11.7 AFR in boost.