|
Ok, next up is water temp control
RB engines in S-chassis notoriously run hot. It's a big engine in a small engine bay, no getting around that fact. Factory radiators never cut the mustard, they will always struggle in anything more than stock applications (I ran a GTR radiator and it was easily outperformed by a fresh 42mm alloy job).
A lot of people will throw a gigantic 600x300 intercooler slap bang in front of the radiator too, and run a fibreglass front bar of some creation. Throw a couple of "2000 cfm" pusher fans on and wonder why it won't cool.
First up, most intercooler setups are retardedly sized. 2-2.5" piping, stepping up to 3" inlet & outlets on a 600x300 running 10psi through it is the definition of useless. I've been running a 500x230 with 2.5" inlet/outlet since the start and push 350 wheel through it no problems.
Next are the lack of factory undertray from the front bar to the lower radiator support, usually part of the factory front bar. Fibreglass front bars never extend that far and people never look to replace it.
Solution: ducting.
Grab some alloy sheet and bend up a bottom tray that slots inside the new front bar and bolts to the lower radiator support. Then grab your favourite beer box and trace out some side panels in cardboard, then transfer to alloy. Go as high as you can, ideally to the top radiator support. These are just as crucial as the bottom tray, especially for drifting as the air that hits the car doesn't come at you front on. Redirecting the air from sliding past the intercooler and out through the wheel well is a big source of cooling. Grab a holesaw, cut some holes in them for the intercooler pipes/joiners (line the hole with split vacuum hose so you don't wear holes)
Next up is fans. Most people run pushers because there's just no room on the back, which is fine. But don't cheap out here - if you're going to throw bills at an alloy radiator, go spency on the fans too. Can't get better than Spal.
Run each fan with their own power feed as well. They will pull serious amps, but these days there are lots of products out there to make this super simple. Thermoswitches in the top hose/feed are a good shout if you're the forgetful type.
With alloy radiator/appropriate intercooler/ducting and good fans there's only going to be a handful still experiencing the odd issue. Oil coolers help a lot with lower water temps, as the two normally run within 10-15 degrees of each other, but the last are sprayers
4mm vacuum hose, check valves and misting spray jets are what you're after. You can run these off a sprayer bottle pump no problem. The use of sprayers is the tricky part. They work by applying water to a hot surface, allowing heat to be drawn out and evaporate. So you want the water on there in good time to draw the heat off before it's too high. However, you're also talking about spraying water on a surface that's in front of the wheels, which may be in the process of keeping you from not dying. So I err on the side of more sprayers and apply immediately on the cool down portion, giving it time to be applied and evaporate before the section starts again. Also, add one or two on an oil cooler if you run one
|