Quote:
Originally Posted by onessari
hey man very cool. nice job man can you put what gauge wire you needed to do the complete relocation. And how much you would basically need?
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Don't quote me on this, but from what I can tell, the bulk of the signal wires are ~18ga wire, with a few smaller wires which I think are 20ga-ish.
Then the main power, like the 12v Constant and 12v ACC are somewhere around 14ga to 12ga, but I don't have a sample in front of me to confirm.
You won't/shouldn't need a lot of wire depending on how you route, couldn't see you using more than 25ft or so for all of the signal stuff and then a few feet for the bigger power wires. Easy thing to do is buy a ~25-30 ft spool of a few different wire sizes and match them up from there, or get the tool.
Quote:
Originally Posted by xoxide
Are you stupid or just lazy? A solid soldered connection is always better than a crimp connector.
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True words, at least for the kind of stuff we're talking about. When doing bigger connections, a crimp is usually the way to go, since you're actually dealing with something large enough to put some real crimping force into (think battery cables and stuff) but for the smaller stuff found in the fender harness, a good solder connection will end up being more worry free. Though with that being said, for some non-automotive applications, I've used crimp connections and then added solder after the fact. It's a neat trick for adding a bit of redundancy.
FWIW, to anyone looking at cutting and then reconnecting your harness, I suggest investing in GOOD heat shrink, especially if you can get the stuff lined with adhesive. More often than not, electrical tape seems to break down overtime, especially if you're in a salty/watery/rustbelt sort of climate.
Also, when I was doing my harness repairs, I found that it was much easier to work in ~5 wire groups. I'd grab a few wires, do what was needed to them, make them into a sub bundle and then move onto the next bunch. Makes it really easy to work with and keep track of.