Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum - View Single Post - 1989 180sx CA18DET Build -Izento-

Izento · 01-01-2015, 06:25 PM

I haven't updated this in a while, so figure I'd show some love to Zilvia.

I just finished piecing together my battery relocation kit, using a Maroso battery box (to make it track legal, even though I don't think Evergreen cares, but it's AutoX legal). I'll get pics of the install, should be pretty fun and quick to do. My battery is already a bit on the small side (comparable to a Miata battery), so we'll see if extending it weakens my crank or anything. I ended up using 2 gauge from Home Depot (not as many threads as welding/audio wire), so we'll see if that also effects the crank. I also picked up a 150 AMP circuit breaker instead of a fuse. My wiring is rated to 120 amps or something, so I don't really know if the wires reaching to 150 AMPs and the circuit breaker cutting connection at that time will save my wires, but I don't think 30 more amps would melt this wire, then again, I have extremely limited experience with electrical stuff. Any input is appreciated.

Finally got around to putting the relocation in. The only problem is the battery is too tall -_- so the cover wont fit. I'll get a new, shorter battery later, but I've already tested it out and it starts without a problem!

I fit it through the ecu grommet and piped it down underneath the carpet.

I then used a bolt to connect the starter wire with the ecu wires and long relocation wire.

Here's a picture of where the battery used to sit. As you can see, it's basically floating in mid air and the only thing keeping it falling through the hole is my intercooler piping is too big to allow the battery to fall through

Here's the new spot.

This is with the lid on. As you can see, the battery is too tall. Also, you can see the circuit breaker at the bottom of the picture which is used on my positive cable. It's rated at 150 AMPs, so it should save my wire from bursting into flames...hopefully.

This is the stud that I'm going to use as my ground. Already tested it and it works perfectly, I just have to enlarge the whole on my negative battery cable to accept the stud size.

All that's left for me to do is rearrange the stud that is holding the battery down, as I drilled a hole which went into the frame rail, so I can't reach in there and place a nut on it, doh! So now I have to drill another hole (my drill sucks and pretty much has enough battery life for 2 strong drill holes, so I used it up for the day, having to wait until tomorrow). Almost done!

---Aug 26, 2014---

So, took my car to the shop today. I'm getting a retune, my headlights fixed (they wont go down, I think my turn signal tree is burnt or something, should be a simple fix), and have them double check my battery relocation.

I had a problem with the stud that I connected the ground to, as sometimes when I pressed the brakes, my volts would go from 14v to 13.6 and also my stereo would cut out when I pressed the brakes . I reconnected the ground to the spare tire mounting point, as every online relocation says to place it there. My volts went from 14v to 13.8 when I press the brakes occasionally, so I think that fixed it.

Now I have a problem with cold starts and even occasionally just running when warmed up, as my car would start stumbling and want to die. I dunno what it is since it started happening a little while after relocating the battery, so I have no idea what it could be, but I have the shop looking into that as well. Hopefully it's nothing major.

We'll see the verdict once the shop calls me back. Hoping for the best and to make some extra power.

---Aug 31, 2014---

243 whp, 224tq. So the exhaust netted me almost 20 hp. Now the turbo is at 17 psi. I had a problem with the battery relocation. No write up told me that you have to keep the engine grounded. As for the headlights, I guess I had a corroded wire in my harness and they had to track it down and go into the dash to fix it. I never would have figured that out, lol. Everything is running good now though and I'm satisfied with the new fast.

--- Oct 14, 2014---

My only pic of the shifter bushing install, but I got the nylon bushing out and cracked part of it trying to take it off! That thing was pretty snug on there, so I don't think I even needed to change it. But I got the brass bushing on there and it feels a little more solid while in gear, but other than that, I don't notice any difference.

--- Dec, 26 2014---

Small update: I've been having trouble with detonation knock and so far, I have received a total of 4 tunes (albeit one of them was after my exhaust rework) and I am still getting knock. This has lead my tuner to believe that it isn't related to the tune, but may be related to part of my fuel system. I would agree since he's tuned it a ton and the knocking hasn't quit.

I've since retired my car until I receive my fuel pump through the mail. Another reason why I'm replacing the pump is because I was blowing fuel pump fuses occasionally (usually full throttle, high rpm situations). I had upped the fuse to a 15 amp since I am running a 255 lph which should require more amps and that stopped me from popping fuses, but thinking back on it, maybe my pump is just getting weak (which also may be related to the weird fuel priming sound that it sometimes has when turning on the ignition to the ON position). What makes me believe it isn't the pump is only by the fact that the pump has only had about a year of daily driving on it and 3 years of weekend warrior type driving. But aside from that, I suppose there are more negatives than positives in this evaluation, which spurted me to purchase a new pump (not too expensive anyways).

I also think my baffle inside the fuel tank has come loose (I later learned after checking inside the tank that it is indeed an outer baffle that has come loose. From what I've heard, nissan zip ties this, but either way, I'm zip tying it as well), since I hear a little racket in there. I'll have a look when I replace the pump.

I'm so ready to just enjoy my car -_-

Side Update: My rims got curbbed again -_- awhile ago; someone tried to run me off the road and quite literally did, smashing me into a jersey barrier, but luckily I steered correctly and only got my rims scrapped (which they paid for). I used that money for a retune and I was going to buy some spare DR-31 rims (my same rims) but they don't make 4 lug anymore, so I decided to finally resand them and paint them. Same process as before, only this time more annoying since I had already done it before, lol.

01-01-2015, 06:25 PM	#21
Izento Leaky Injector Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 102 Trader Rating: (1)	I haven't updated this in a while, so figure I'd show some love to Zilvia. I just finished piecing together my battery relocation kit, using a Maroso battery box (to make it track legal, even though I don't think Evergreen cares, but it's AutoX legal). I'll get pics of the install, should be pretty fun and quick to do. My battery is already a bit on the small side (comparable to a Miata battery), so we'll see if extending it weakens my crank or anything. I ended up using 2 gauge from Home Depot (not as many threads as welding/audio wire), so we'll see if that also effects the crank. I also picked up a 150 AMP circuit breaker instead of a fuse. My wiring is rated to 120 amps or something, so I don't really know if the wires reaching to 150 AMPs and the circuit breaker cutting connection at that time will save my wires, but I don't think 30 more amps would melt this wire, then again, I have extremely limited experience with electrical stuff. Any input is appreciated. Finally got around to putting the relocation in. The only problem is the battery is too tall -_- so the cover wont fit. I'll get a new, shorter battery later, but I've already tested it out and it starts without a problem! I fit it through the ecu grommet and piped it down underneath the carpet. I then used a bolt to connect the starter wire with the ecu wires and long relocation wire. Here's a picture of where the battery used to sit. As you can see, it's basically floating in mid air and the only thing keeping it falling through the hole is my intercooler piping is too big to allow the battery to fall through Here's the new spot. This is with the lid on. As you can see, the battery is too tall. Also, you can see the circuit breaker at the bottom of the picture which is used on my positive cable. It's rated at 150 AMPs, so it should save my wire from bursting into flames...hopefully. This is the stud that I'm going to use as my ground. Already tested it and it works perfectly, I just have to enlarge the whole on my negative battery cable to accept the stud size. All that's left for me to do is rearrange the stud that is holding the battery down, as I drilled a hole which went into the frame rail, so I can't reach in there and place a nut on it, doh! So now I have to drill another hole (my drill sucks and pretty much has enough battery life for 2 strong drill holes, so I used it up for the day, having to wait until tomorrow). Almost done! ---Aug 26, 2014--- So, took my car to the shop today. I'm getting a retune, my headlights fixed (they wont go down, I think my turn signal tree is burnt or something, should be a simple fix), and have them double check my battery relocation. I had a problem with the stud that I connected the ground to, as sometimes when I pressed the brakes, my volts would go from 14v to 13.6 and also my stereo would cut out when I pressed the brakes . I reconnected the ground to the spare tire mounting point, as every online relocation says to place it there. My volts went from 14v to 13.8 when I press the brakes occasionally, so I think that fixed it. Now I have a problem with cold starts and even occasionally just running when warmed up, as my car would start stumbling and want to die. I dunno what it is since it started happening a little while after relocating the battery, so I have no idea what it could be, but I have the shop looking into that as well. Hopefully it's nothing major. We'll see the verdict once the shop calls me back. Hoping for the best and to make some extra power. ---Aug 31, 2014--- 243 whp, 224tq. So the exhaust netted me almost 20 hp. Now the turbo is at 17 psi. I had a problem with the battery relocation. No write up told me that you have to keep the engine grounded. As for the headlights, I guess I had a corroded wire in my harness and they had to track it down and go into the dash to fix it. I never would have figured that out, lol. Everything is running good now though and I'm satisfied with the new fast. --- Oct 14, 2014--- My only pic of the shifter bushing install, but I got the nylon bushing out and cracked part of it trying to take it off! That thing was pretty snug on there, so I don't think I even needed to change it. But I got the brass bushing on there and it feels a little more solid while in gear, but other than that, I don't notice any difference. --- Dec, 26 2014--- Small update: I've been having trouble with detonation knock and so far, I have received a total of 4 tunes (albeit one of them was after my exhaust rework) and I am still getting knock. This has lead my tuner to believe that it isn't related to the tune, but may be related to part of my fuel system. I would agree since he's tuned it a ton and the knocking hasn't quit. I've since retired my car until I receive my fuel pump through the mail. Another reason why I'm replacing the pump is because I was blowing fuel pump fuses occasionally (usually full throttle, high rpm situations). I had upped the fuse to a 15 amp since I am running a 255 lph which should require more amps and that stopped me from popping fuses, but thinking back on it, maybe my pump is just getting weak (which also may be related to the weird fuel priming sound that it sometimes has when turning on the ignition to the ON position). What makes me believe it isn't the pump is only by the fact that the pump has only had about a year of daily driving on it and 3 years of weekend warrior type driving. But aside from that, I suppose there are more negatives than positives in this evaluation, which spurted me to purchase a new pump (not too expensive anyways). I also think my baffle inside the fuel tank has come loose (I later learned after checking inside the tank that it is indeed an outer baffle that has come loose. From what I've heard, nissan zip ties this, but either way, I'm zip tying it as well), since I hear a little racket in there. I'll have a look when I replace the pump. I'm so ready to just enjoy my car -_- Side Update: My rims got curbbed again -_- awhile ago; someone tried to run me off the road and quite literally did, smashing me into a jersey barrier, but luckily I steered correctly and only got my rims scrapped (which they paid for). I used that money for a retune and I was going to buy some spare DR-31 rims (my same rims) but they don't make 4 lug anymore, so I decided to finally resand them and paint them. Same process as before, only this time more annoying since I had already done it before, lol.