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Old 08-26-2013, 09:40 PM   #32
Jissan
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Louisiana
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Thanks people! Can't tell by the video but I was freaking out.

Currently waiting on a left brake rotor and will be finishing the brake lines as soon as I can. I've been aiming to have the car mobile by Sept 1st ever since I broke my arm. It looks like it's gonna be really close!

On another note, I've been comparing the fuel level sensor resistance between the cars. The S runs ~80 ohms at empty and the Z runs 123 ohms at empty. A big issue with just swapping the sensor, aside from fit, is that the Z has TWO fuel level sensors in series that make up the 123 ohms... one on each side of the tank. They did this due to the fact that the tank straddles the driveshaft. Fair enough, but the issue is that by running JUST the single S sensor, the Z gauge will show the tank as full CORRECTLY, but the tank should run dry somewhere around the 1/3 mark. Shit.

So I'll see about wiring in the secondary Z sensor (luckily it's range is ~40ohms) to the S fuel level resistor in-tank. I haven't put in the new fuel pump so I haven't taken a good look at it yet, but I'll make sure to post what I find.

I've got a similar setup with the front ABS sensors. I've got to get a set of S ABS rings and possibly sensors too, but it looks like I'll be building a board to mediate signal between what the Z is sending and expecting back in terms of pulses, and the S setup. The S has a tone ring with a sensor running an electromagnetic mechanism. The Z seems to run the opposite by having a segmented magnetic ring on the inside face of the front hubs actuating an iron filament completing the circuit to indicate rotation. It may just be as simple as taking a count of the Z tone ring "teeth", tooth count of the S ring, and making a signal modifier to translate the appropriate signal.

Apparently I'm a glutton for punishment because these kind of issues seem to be what I get into the most. What a loser.
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Last edited by Jissan; 08-27-2013 at 01:07 AM..
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