Just did the swap this weekend, a few things to add:
Removing the auto tranny:
- loosen the motor mounts and undo the exhaust at the catback beginning
- this allows the motor to swivel down enough for you to be able to reach the
top starter bolt and two top bell-house bolts with long 1/2" extensions and breaker bar
- no need to undo the heater hoses to reach the bolts from the top
CAS sensor
- you'll want to re-use this sensor
- if you leave it on the trans when you pull it down it'll get crushed on the firewall
- to remove it:
- undo the bracket holds the throttle cable and booster hose
- zip tie it out of the way
- undo the ground bolt on the bolt above the exhaust manifold and move the o2 harness out of the way.
- no you can reach the CAS sensor from the top with your right hand and from below with your left to get a short 10mm wrench on it and remove it
- you'll do this backwards to install it at the end
Using s13 parts on your S14 swap:
Transmission
- you can use an s13 transmission but you'll need to drill out the hole atop the bell-house for the CAS sensor
- measure the location on your auto tranny
- mark it on the s13 tranny and drill the hole
- mark the hole for the bolt and drill/tap it (8mm x 1.0 size bolt)
Note: the CAS sensor needs to be spaced up on the bell-house ~1/2"
- we didn't and it got destroyed when we fired up the engine
will update when I get to fixing it
Clutch Pedal:
- s13 and s14 clutch pedals are interchangeable but..
- s13 pedal has standoff welded on the firewall while
- s14 pedal has them on the clutch bracket
- if you use the s13 pedal you need to make 1 1/4 long spacers to go on the bolts so that the pedal mounts where it should
and finally
compressed air, lift and tranny jack are godsend