SstennizZ

I've been running a turbonoz stage 1 chip on my red top for a while now. From the start it turned out to make the engine run way to rich (actually stalling the engine above 6000 rpm).
In combination with a safc I managed to get it running ok, but I recently upgraded to a gt25rs and now need to make it even more lean with the safc.
It tends to lean out at idle, runs perfect at closed loop, and it's around 11.4ish from 3500 and up.. It also has a minor dip when revving up rapidly in first or second gear. I don't want to regard the timing even more with the safc, worrying about the engine knocking.
Specs right now are:
Gt25rs @ 1.0 Bar
Stock inspectors, stock maf
Afpr. @ 3.1 bar wot
FMIC
Turbonoz stage 1
Walbro fuelpump

Is there a way to fix this without having to go to nistune or whatever?

SstennizZ

Nobody?
I'm hearing it might be a boostleak. Does that sound right with these symptoms? It does pull, just really rich.. I leveled it out now, going to -6 on the high revs on the safc..
Didn't think i'd have this problem with stock injectors.. Was expecting to run lean with them..

SstennizZ

Checked for boost leaks. Found one little hole, but not on the pressure side (intake hose).. Though on the way home I noticed it did affect the AFR. Just not how I wanted or expected. It still hovers around 16 on idle, still needs a setting of -4 to -7 on the safc to keep it around 11,5 at wot, but now it also tends to go to 14,0 (erratic) at closed loop and idle rpm dropped to 670ish. Is this merely me not having reset the ECU after fixing the (about 1,5mm wide) hole in the intake hose? Or what else could be wrong?
I can't really change the idle rpm since that crap plastic idle screw is foobered, but it used to run around 750 to 800 idle. Now on cold start it goes to around 500 (making it knock like hell on the safc and running 16 to 17 AFR) and when hot drops to around 300 and steadies out at around 15 to 16 on idle.

Anybody?

SstennizZ

Just reset the ecu and pulled the error codes... No change and code 55.. I don't get it..

Kingtal0n

1. AFPR is set to 3BAR at 0PSI (atmospheric pressure) *not wot* right?
2. That "chip" is for stock injectors, stock maf, then I would not use it.
Reason A Is because you should be using the OEM ecu for oem injectors/maf
reason B is because somebody probably threw some extra timing in there, thinking it would make a bit more power, and incombination with a SAFC you have NO IDEA how much timing is actually being used

3. This is a huge problem. Your engine is telling you something, what is that dip caused by? A lean condition? A misfire? too much/little timing? I bet its dipping lean.
Everytime it does that, a kitten dies. actually, you might be eating up the deck or the head without realizing it.

4. 1Bar of boost on 370CC injectors with an OEM maf and (safc+chip) is going to break something. 370's can barely run 1bar of boost with everything setup perfect, let alone without having a chip and a piggyback...

Recommendation:
For the current setup:
Lower the boost to 7psi
use an OEM ecu/maf/injectors (reason: there is very little to gain from using a SAFC or "chipped" ecu with the oem injectors/maf, and yet, there is much to lose)

For more boost:
get a power FC, 300ZX maf, and larger injectors.

last... you are quoting A/F numbers as if you have a wideband installed. If so, what brand? And where is it located? How old is it? Has it been dyno verified to be accurate?

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