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Old 10-30-2011, 08:17 PM   #1
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radiator relocation

I swapped a 2jzgte into my s14 and it has barely any clearance between the radiator fans and the front of the engine. Its so close that I think the air cavitates and is affecting the cooling efficiency of the fans.

I was looking at the car and I think that I could re-locate the radiator underneath the radiator support area. Has anyone ever seen this done before? It would move the radiator forward a good 3 inches or so.


Tips would be helpful.
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Old 10-30-2011, 08:18 PM   #2
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either that or put some pusher fans in front of the Radiator
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Old 10-30-2011, 08:29 PM   #3
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Air cannot cavitate.

But it will be sucked straight toward the engine and be going nowhere.
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Old 10-30-2011, 08:40 PM   #4
 
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What I've seen some people do is cut the rad support and move the rad up a little. But im guessing you won't be into cutting the rad support!? Then again stick the rad underneath the rad support would be a good idea.
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Old 10-30-2011, 09:19 PM   #5
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I am willing to u the radiator support if necessary. The car runs at a good temp and does not overheat but I need the extra space to make it more efficient.

Another problem I have been thinking about is the location of my condensor if I move the radiator...I guess I may have no option but to leave it where it is at. are pusher fans as efficient as puller fans?
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Old 10-30-2011, 09:28 PM   #6
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Chasebays sells a rad that fits in the core support.

Should net you about 2" more clearance.
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Old 10-30-2011, 09:30 PM   #7
 
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Personally, I think pushers block air flow when driving on the highway or any road in that matter. Also when people cut there rad support, I didn't see them do anything to the condenser.
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Old 10-30-2011, 09:36 PM   #8
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Chasebays sells a rad that fits in the core support.

Should net you about 2" more clearance.

do you have a link?
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Old 10-30-2011, 09:45 PM   #9
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Personally, I think pushers block air flow when driving on the highway or any road in that matter. Also when people cut there rad support, I didn't see them do anything to the condenser.

My pushers work just fine with my RB, also still have the A/C condenser in the stock location
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Old 10-30-2011, 10:46 PM   #10
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do you have a link?
Chase Bays Tucked Aluminum Radiator - Nissan 240sx - ChaseBays.com
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Old 10-31-2011, 10:05 AM   #11
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I am also looking to move the radiator forward. My Turbo LSx S13 likes to get hot because it now has a 4" intercooler in front of of the radiator and a 2.5" crossover hotside behind it. I was thinking about notching the top of the core support and notching in between the headlights to make a nice seat for it. I'm going to go stare at it more today.
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Old 11-08-2011, 05:17 PM   #12
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Bumping this thread...

I've been staring at the core support for a while now. It looks like you can notch the lower crossmember of the core support. I am thinking about drilling out the upper support's spot welds and using M8 bolts to fasten it back on. I'll get up pics once my Flexalite fans come in.
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Old 11-08-2011, 05:30 PM   #13
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I have just the solution for you. You can do the pushers, however i didn't go this route and i too was faced with a situation similar to yours. Let me snap a pic for you. Mine is in the radio support.


EDIT: Here are some pics i just snapped of what mine looks like. Please excuse the dirtyness :P. Been working on her lately and no time to clean her off!


Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 11-08-2011, 05:39 PM   #14
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RB Haha

I'm in the same boat with my RB25.

1. Chasebay radiators.....not gonna go that route, no way i'm paying $400 for a radiator unless it's made out of gold.
2. Cutting looks like shit and i'm wondering if this affects "flex or geometry" of the car?
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Old 11-08-2011, 05:41 PM   #15
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I like 2.5T_/<ouki's fix better than The chase bays one because it keeps the radiator at a higher point in the system.

Lol at the air cavitation comment. That's a fluid property.
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Old 11-08-2011, 05:43 PM   #16
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RB

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2.5T_/<ouki View Post
I have just the solution for you. You can do the pushers, however i didn't go this route and i too was faced with a situation similar to yours. Let me snap a pic for you. Mine is in the radio support.


EDIT: Here are some pics i just snapped of what mine looks like. Please excuse the dirtyness :P. Been working on her lately and no time to clean her off!


Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.
Did you try fitting a clutch fan in there? What kind of mounts are you running?

I'm on stock r33 mounts with an r33 cross member and my steering column is an issue as well....not quite sure how to fix it besides doing a custom elbow...
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Old 11-08-2011, 05:52 PM   #17
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Did you try fitting a clutch fan in there? What kind of mounts are you running?

I'm on stock r33 mounts with an r33 cross member and my steering column is an issue as well....not quite sure how to fix it besides doing a custom elbow...
I am also on r33 mounts w/ r33 cross-member. You need to get a Psyko performace elbow. They run about $200 picked up; it did the trick for me.
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Old 11-08-2011, 05:54 PM   #18
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Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

This is how I'm doing mine, from Summit for $250 or so.
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Old 11-08-2011, 05:56 PM   #19
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^ Looks good, but is that sufficient enough for a 2J ?
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Old 11-08-2011, 06:06 PM   #20
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^ Looks good, but is that sufficient enough for a 2J ?
Look at how thick it is (no homo). I heard they do work fine on RB's. I tried contacting PSYCHO! (Syko) Performance and they never responded - guess they don't need the business in this economy. If I can't find one soon i'll just have a friend weld one for me....should be a fun project.

Btw, nice engine bay you have, what kind of tune you running?
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Old 11-08-2011, 06:09 PM   #21
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Look at how thick it is (no homo). I heard they do work fine on RB's. I tried contacting PSYCHO! (Syko) Performance and they never responded - guess they don't need the business in this economy. If I can't find one soon i'll just have a friend weld one for me....should be a fun project.

Btw, nice engine bay you have, what kind of tune you running?
Contact Marco @ SR20 Store in gardena. I picked mine up from him. Guy from Syko dropped it off at his shop and i picked it up from him for $200 cash.

Thanks!
Actualy i am stocker right now. In the process of installing my Z32 ECU & NIStune board.
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Old 11-08-2011, 06:32 PM   #22
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^ Looks good, but is that sufficient enough for a 2J ?
I hope so, I'm putting in a LS1!
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Old 11-08-2011, 06:56 PM   #23
 
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im also in the same boat i have a 1jz in a s13 and want more room and cool temps .... i use the car mostly for drifting so theres not always a good straight through air flow coming at the rad ! was thinking v mount . cant find too many pics with this setup though
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Old 11-08-2011, 07:05 PM   #24
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^^^here you go man this is from s14pits build.
s13 2jzge swap coupe build
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Old 11-08-2011, 07:29 PM   #25
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Fred, do you have the part number for that radiator? Looks perfect. I wonder if flexalite fans will mate up to that.
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Old 11-08-2011, 10:52 PM   #26
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I hope so, I'm putting in a LS1!
Too legit to quit!
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Old 11-09-2011, 01:06 AM   #27
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Gotta move this guy forward to fit some puller fans. Pushers aren't cutting it with a 4" intercooler and a 2.5 hot pipe behind it.

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 11-09-2011, 01:54 AM   #28
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use a civic radiator
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Old 11-09-2011, 02:29 AM   #29
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Gotta move this guy forward to fit some puller fans. Pushers aren't cutting it with a 4" intercooler and a 2.5 hot pipe behind it.

Click the image to open in full size.
Holy shittttt.....

X2 on the "civic style radiator"
RB s13 out here making 500+ ran one
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Old 11-09-2011, 06:18 AM   #30
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Fred, do you have the part number for that radiator? Looks perfect. I wonder if flexalite fans will mate up to that.
Here ya go, AFC-80107N from Summit. I think I'll have to run a surge tank to get it to bleed right, might get away with just putting a rad cap in the upper rad pipe but it's iffy.
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