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Old 10-17-2009, 06:32 PM   #61
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i would do the sr swap. why cant people just answer the question?
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Old 10-17-2009, 06:42 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gzer750 View Post
i would do the sr swap. why cant people just answer the question?
Because this question has been asked countless times before.

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- People need to learn how to do things for themselves and not for others. I mean this in two ways. One is by researching. The other is to not worry what little jimmy down the street has in his car.

If you want to be different, buy another car and move out to a deserted island.

Or better yet, sew a rainbow colored dick to your forehead. That sure will set you apart from everyone else.

Because here is the gist of your argument. "It's too easy". WTF type of argument is that?! In the land of cars and modifications, anything you think of has already be thought of or done.
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Old 10-17-2009, 06:44 PM   #63
 
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rb20, all the way..it more stable for higher power with less mods..
plus the engine sounds better.

but i guess it up to you drive a car with both and see what you like more.

p.s. i'm rocking a rb20 loving it
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Old 10-17-2009, 06:56 PM   #64
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Someone needs to lock this thing, as it has served it's purpose.
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Old 10-17-2009, 07:01 PM   #65
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someone needs to lock this thing, as it has served it's purpose.
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Old 10-17-2009, 07:13 PM   #66
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is it true that iron blocks heat up faster than aluminum blocks?
does that mean it has a greater chance of overheating?

whats the weight difference between the rb20 and rb25?

/threadjack
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Old 10-17-2009, 07:38 PM   #67
 
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My vote goes toward the SR. I have a n S14SR in my car and I drive the hell out of it. Hell, I just drove back to Louisiana from California. If you want a dd that you can go to Autozone or the dealership and pick up parts, go SR. Parts are relatively cheap. With simple bolt ons, I managed to git 278hp/236tq out of my car @15psi. And yea, its pretty fun for a dd. If money wasn't an issue, I would go 1JZ or RB25. I'm currently in the process of getting my car ready for a 2JZ swap. If you have any questions about it, pm me.
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Old 10-17-2009, 07:51 PM   #68
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is it true that iron blocks heat up faster than aluminum blocks?
does that mean it has a greater chance of overheating?

whats the weight difference between the rb20 and rb25?

/threadjack
aluminum exchanges heat faster than iron.

So the aluminum would heat up at a faster rate.

But it will also cool down at a faster rate.
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Old 10-17-2009, 09:05 PM   #69
 
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Id go sr.U can build it just as raw as a 20.With right turbo and componets u can achive serious power with keepin the buget under control.
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Old 10-17-2009, 09:05 PM   #70
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If you want to be different, buy another car and move out to a deserted island.

Or better yet, sew a rainbow colored dick to your forehead. That sure will set you apart from everyone else.

holy shit LMAO
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Old 10-18-2009, 07:55 AM   #71
 
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Man this is more information than I had ever hoped to get based on the first few reply's
Both cars are already swapped but if I were to do it my self I'd look for a rb25,26 to swap.
This car is only a (get you feet wet ) to see if I like the platform and then move on from there. If I like the car enough I'll sell both rb20's it comes with and start a 25 or 26 swap on the car. The hardest thing I've tried to find is a turbo with the t3 turbine inlet and the t25/t28 outlet. Looks like I'll have to make a v-band elbow for it when I do a turbo swap.
First things first with the car is to go thu it and straighten out any issues with the swap.
Then find an exhaust for the car. 550cc inj. intake man. Nistune or some way of tuning the rom in the ecu( really need the tune software/hardware first) Think I saw a link yesterday to a site that has software to burn rom's for the rb engines

Thanks for the audio links. I love the sound of a strong straight 6 or flat 6. I've been driving a 4 cyl for a year now and really getting tired of the buzzy nature of the big 2.5l turbo eng I have in my 944. Porsche did as much as they could to smooth out the engine but you can only do so much ( well in the late 80's that is) Heck if I can come across a gt3 3.8l that could always be a diffenent swap. Don't really think it would fit but with enough time and money most any swap is possible.

Any favorites out there as far as exhaust goe's From what it looks like is I need a dump pipe and then a cat back for a s14. Not really sure but I'll be able to figure that out when I get the car on the rack and look at it.

Thanks again to all that provided useful information. It's made the disscision process much easier.
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Old 10-18-2009, 11:07 AM   #72
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YouTube - S13 RB20DET 3'' Straight Pipe

^^nope sounds pretty lame-o to me.

on the fact of originality that doesnt exist anymore. everything has been done to this car except an ej25 swap or porche motors. i mean they have 4g63s and s2000 motors going into this chassis.

other than that there isnt anything original about an rb20 let alone a 240sx. either way your getting a quality product from nissan.


the sound factor shouldnt even be discussed it holds no value in choice.
Hey thats my car. It got stolen! I dont think it was lame sounding especially after i put a muffler on a couple days after. Get the RB 240. Drives smooth and the sound makes people wet lol.
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Old 10-18-2009, 05:44 PM   #73
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Man this is more information than I had ever hoped to get based on the first few reply's
Both cars are already swapped but if I were to do it my self I'd look for a rb25,26 to swap.
This car is only a (get you feet wet ) to see if I like the platform and then move on from there. If I like the car enough I'll sell both rb20's it comes with and start a 25 or 26 swap on the car. The hardest thing I've tried to find is a turbo with the t3 turbine inlet and the t25/t28 outlet. Looks like I'll have to make a v-band elbow for it when I do a turbo swap.
First things first with the car is to go thu it and straighten out any issues with the swap.
Then find an exhaust for the car. 550cc inj. intake man. Nistune or some way of tuning the rom in the ecu( really need the tune software/hardware first) Think I saw a link yesterday to a site that has software to burn rom's for the rb engines

Thanks for the audio links. I love the sound of a strong straight 6 or flat 6. I've been driving a 4 cyl for a year now and really getting tired of the buzzy nature of the big 2.5l turbo eng I have in my 944. Porsche did as much as they could to smooth out the engine but you can only do so much ( well in the late 80's that is) Heck if I can come across a gt3 3.8l that could always be a diffenent swap. Don't really think it would fit but with enough time and money most any swap is possible.

Any favorites out there as far as exhaust goe's From what it looks like is I need a dump pipe and then a cat back for a s14. Not really sure but I'll be able to figure that out when I get the car on the rack and look at it.

Thanks again to all that provided useful information. It's made the disscision process much easier.
Do not waste your time trying to find a turbo like that. Just move right up to a t3/t4. Or at the least an r34 rb25 turbo which is basicly a hi-flowed rb25 turbo out of the box. It is good to around 350whp. For about 800.00 and completely bolt on. Have fun with your new purchase!!!

Mods please lock thread///
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Old 10-19-2009, 06:57 AM   #74
 
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Just got the rb20 car home, She needs a little attention. Rear sub-frame bushings. I'll need to find a better motor mount setup. I don't really like the poly bushings they used for mounts. Will also need to set the ride height up slightly. Think it's sitting on the stops. Car has GAB revolution coil-overs. I haven't been able to find much info about them.
Other than that I was suprised by the power and how fast the turbo spools.

Car will need some attention but I got it cheap and the body is just about perfect. Only 1 tiny dent that dent-doctor/press-a-dent will be able to take care of. Car needs an exh put on it. way too quite. stock all the way back.
so time to start buying parts.
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Old 10-22-2009, 05:58 AM   #75
 
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Ok here is my thoughts.

RB20det - the power is spread over more cylinders making it easier on the engine
- this engine sucks up a ton of space, for not much reward
- Heavier, I think it is a steel block(correct me if wrong)

SR20det - tons of mods
- more room in the engine bay
- more mechanics comfortable working on this engine
- most problems can be searched and found here on zilvia

no such thing as a steel block,

but the RB20 does have a cast iron block
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Old 10-22-2009, 06:07 AM   #76
 
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is it true that iron blocks heat up faster than aluminum blocks?
does that mean it has a greater chance of overheating?

whats the weight difference between the rb20 and rb25?

/threadjack
if the rb20 and rb25 are the same block just differnet bore (doubt they are) then the 2.5L would be lighter (overbore = lighter)

iron blocks are more susetible to cracks, but they handle external pressures extremly well (boost).

aluminum blocks typically have semi closed or open deck (closed deck AL blocks DO exist subaru, honda and the 4b11 world engine has diff variants of deck construction)

neither will over heat on you if you have a decent cooling system.
just make a personal choice, cast iron is pretty heavy though, don't let the sand castd into an iron block/cast iron scare you off. aluminum blocks are typically sandcast (as well as heads) so if anyone says something about that, sand contiaminats are roughly the same in an AL block.

if you're welding up water jacket holes you you can mill them back down and add a chamfer, like endyn likes to do to dart blocks, Al is the material to choose with a high sillicone content filler, and a green stripe (pure) tungsten rod. some people like to run some helium with their shileding gas, but i typically use 100% argon for al of my tig welding. unless im not getting enough heat into the metal.
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Old 10-22-2009, 06:20 AM   #77
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I have had a lot of swaps in 240sx chassis's. If I had a choice between sr20 and rb20 I would have to go with rb20. No matter what I put at a rb20 it would just take the beating. It sounded and rev'd way smoother, harder, and sounded cooler with stock rev limiter at 7800. Plenty of power to slide.. usually beats a sr20det stock for stock. The waste gates normally run about 10 to 11 psi on rb20det anyways compared to the 7 psi stock on sr.

I seriously didn't believe there was a thread about this. personally ever since I swaped my ls1 I have never looked back. So far the best swap I ever have owned. I have had sr20det sr20 n/a, ka24de with itbs and ka24e with itbs, ka24det setups, rb20det rb25det, l series setups in 240sx.. anyways good luck.
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Old 10-22-2009, 04:39 PM   #78
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stick with the SR. i hated my RB20.
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Old 10-22-2009, 04:54 PM   #79
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SR20DET > RB2Odet ..lol...
i have bunch of friends that swap out RB20 for SR because RB is like curse sure they are ncie and blah blah blah but only for so much times.....Sr20 is well known for it abuse, daily , or soemtime even power
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Old 10-22-2009, 05:26 PM   #80
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this thread has been interesting thats all I can say
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Old 10-22-2009, 05:42 PM   #81
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if you want a nice powered car for daily and you are attention whore then go for RB..
OMG SKYRINE MOTAAAA in 240SX that RAAARRREEEEE
if youy want a good gas mileages and still get some road kill with reliable and can get some nice number with right mod then go for SR....maybe be the first one to do SR22 ..LAWLS
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Old 10-22-2009, 05:52 PM   #82
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think about this.
if guys in japan don't do rb20 swap into their cars instead
you see sr20 swap all the time is because they know it's junk.
if you are going to get mounts, driveshafts, and all the work you might as well go RB25.
RB20 is the buttom of the food chain.
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Old 10-22-2009, 05:56 PM   #83
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guys dont do RB20 swap because all their cars come with SR20...
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Old 10-22-2009, 05:57 PM   #84
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think about this.
if guys in japan don't do rb20 swap into their cars instead
you see sr20 swap all the time is because they know it's junk.
if you are going to get mounts, driveshafts, and all the work you might as well go RB25.
RB20 is the buttom of the food chain.

umm...sr20 comes stock in japan..they would have no need for a swap.
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Old 10-22-2009, 06:19 PM   #85
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OMG...jdm cars comes with SR???
what about cars don't come with SR they swap in RB20?
think
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Old 10-22-2009, 06:30 PM   #86
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I would get a fuel injected ls1 and cruise at 1500 rpms on freeway @ 6 gear lol its lightweight, parts r easy to come by and its got lots of kick lol ^^

dont waste your time on the rb unless u got the money and down time when something goes wrong... just get the sr less problems, more parts, less money, still turbo...

Ive seen rbs in 240s and wonder how they change the belts on those things without removing the radiator...

plus rb20 is a waste of time same power as red top wtf is that.. fu**k that
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Old 10-22-2009, 06:35 PM   #87
 
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sr would be my choice parts are cheaper and more avalible but i would do a rb if it was a 25 or 26
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Old 10-22-2009, 10:06 PM   #88
 
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OMG...jdm cars comes with SR???
what about cars don't come with SR they swap in RB20?
think
silvia = sr20det
180sx = ca18det
200sx = sr20det

in japan. 180sx's get sr20's alot, along with silvia front ends.

atleast that's what i saw when i was there.
shoving a RB series motor was pretty rare, rb26dett's are even expensive in japan (about as much as a 454 long block or ls1/ls2/ls7 swap here)

and sha-ken is the equvilant to smog + saftey checks here. no aftermarket parts
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Old 10-22-2009, 10:15 PM   #89
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silvia = sr20det
180sx = ca18det
200sx = sr20det

in japan. 180sx's get sr20's alot, along with silvia front ends.

atleast that's what i saw when i was there.
shoving a RB series motor was pretty rare, rb26dett's are even expensive in japan (about as much as a 454 long block or ls1/ls2/ls7 swap here)

and sha-ken is the equvilant to smog + saftey checks here. no aftermarket parts

Ah guys Sam has been into these cars for longer than all of you. In fact, he knows what the hell he is talking about and was speaking sarcastically, which seems to have been lost on of all you.

In simple sense its like this. Guys in Japan have done both 25 and 26 swaps. They would not bother with the RB20 because yes there cars already come with a SR which we all know is a 2 liter 4. Plus the RB20 is the bottom of the pile for Nissan inline 6's in the 90's.

Now if any of you thinking your schooling Sam aka Jspec your clueless as hell and probably should refrain from posting.

This thread has run its course, the OP got more questions answered and info than he ever expected. Now you punks are just mucking it up with debate.

Oh and the OP bought one of the cars with the engine in question, so....
MODS Please lock this thread its now a dead Horse!
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Old 10-22-2009, 10:24 PM   #90
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would go with rb
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