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Old 07-03-2009, 03:21 PM   #1
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Is there any other option in taking off tar besides dry ice?

As stated.
Dry Ice is hard to come by in my area
and if they do have. its ridiculously expensive
any of you guys no any other options for removing the tar?
Thanks in advance
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Old 07-03-2009, 03:34 PM   #2
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Hammer
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Brake Cleaner
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Old 07-03-2009, 03:37 PM   #3
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What Brian said!!

Whatever you do dont use a heat gun like some people suggest. It becomes a total mess
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Old 07-03-2009, 03:38 PM   #4
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supermarkets don't have it for cheap near you? sucks
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Old 07-03-2009, 04:25 PM   #5
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Hammer
Chisel
Brake Cleaner

Will it be easy to come out, or do i need to put a little elbow grease lol?






Quote:
Originally Posted by murda-c View Post
supermarkets don't have it for cheap near you? sucks


they do but they throw it or im really not sure
every grocerie store i went to said they dont sell it
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Old 07-03-2009, 04:27 PM   #6
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It's a lot of work
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Old 07-03-2009, 04:35 PM   #7
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Chisel and hammer will work but do yourself a favor and buy the dry ice. Everyone always recommends the dry ice method cuz it works but what they fail to mention is that dry ice makes it SUPER EASY!!! lol Seriously youd be doing yourself a favor by buying dry ice....i did my whole car with dry ice and it took me 25 min....of course you have to let it sit for about 10-15 min. I work at a grocery store so i stole mine lol dont really know how much it would of cost me but spring for it....you be glad that you did
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Old 07-03-2009, 04:36 PM   #8
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I did 2 cars with soem dry ice. It never worked well for me. Maybe I did it wrong.
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Old 07-03-2009, 04:55 PM   #9
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Use a propane torch and a mechanic's scraper. NOT a shitty putty knife, but a good mechanic's gasket scraper. A heat gun works as well, but not quite as good as the torch. I have done it with a hair dryer as well, but it doesn't really get the tar hot enough. Once you get it hot the tar comes off like butter, but it is still an shitload of work. You'll also need a bunch of lacquer thinner and some old terrycloth towels that you don't mind ruining to clean up the residue. If you do it like this it comes off nice and clean with only some scratches on the floor. It does take a whole shitload of work though. Set aside an area of the floor to do each day and stay at it. Half removed sound deadening is the gheyest of the ghey.
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Old 07-03-2009, 05:04 PM   #10
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Use soap and water, apply an oily substance (creamy peanut butter, butter, vegetable oil, mayonaise or bath oil) wait 24 hours, wipe with a clothe, if there is still residue use WD-40, kerosene or mineral spirits like Petrolium Distilate.
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Old 07-03-2009, 05:06 PM   #11
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i got some at smith's it was cheap.
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Old 07-03-2009, 05:13 PM   #12
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i did it with hammer and chisel on my first fastback...ohh what a pain in the ass. On my second fastback i used dry ice and whew it was so much easier. With my coupe im going to use dry ice for the most of it and what i cant get ill heat it up with a heat gun and use my gasket scrapper to get it off
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Old 07-03-2009, 05:14 PM   #13
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I've heard very good things about pipefreeze. The stuff plumbers use to freeze the water in a pipe before removing a section.

Apparently your spray the tar with the pipefreeze, smack it with a rubber mallet, and it comes off in sheets.

I'll be attempting it with mine v.soon.
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Old 07-03-2009, 05:27 PM   #14
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Use soap and water, apply an oily substance (creamy peanut butter, butter, vegetable oil, mayonaise or bath oil) wait 24 hours, wipe with a clothe, if there is still residue use WD-40, kerosene or mineral spirits like Petrolium Distilate.
Just skip all that and go with the lacquer thinner. It's tried and true and works perfectly.
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Old 07-03-2009, 05:45 PM   #15
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Paint thinner worked great for me to take off the rest of the residue underneath the sound deadening. Dry ice worked wonders for me. We did my friends hatch like 3 yrs ago with the heat torch method and that method just sucked IMO. Every car ive done after mine has came out easy with the dry ice
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Old 07-03-2009, 05:53 PM   #16
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I've done it both ways: with a heat gun and with dry ice

Dry ice makes it 1000x easier. Cover one section at a time and let it sit for 10 to 15 min then wack it with a hammer and it comes up so easily
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Old 07-03-2009, 08:03 PM   #17
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wire wheel works great but can be messy
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Old 07-03-2009, 08:11 PM   #18
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wire wheel was fast but like dousan said , messy.

I did mine with dry ice then torched the left over areas.
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Old 07-03-2009, 08:15 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zenki_Kouki.5 View Post
As stated.
Dry Ice is hard to come by in my area
and if they do have. its ridiculously expensive
any of you guys no any other options for removing the tar?
Thanks in advance
dude albertson sell dry ice 1.99$ a pound ...
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Old 07-03-2009, 08:30 PM   #20
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harbor freight...rotary hammer with a wide chisel bit. fuck a hammer. goof off or any other harsh solvent/thinner/stripper with a soft scrubbing pad for the remnants.

havent tried dry ice yet, will on my next one. but hammer and chisel w/o dry ice def sucked donkey balls. the rotary hammer was 10x faster.
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Old 07-03-2009, 08:43 PM   #21
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I've done it both ways: with a heat gun and with dry ice

Dry ice makes it 1000x easier. Cover one section at a time and let it sit for 10 to 15 min then wack it with a hammer and it comes up so easily
x2 Chips right off
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Old 07-03-2009, 10:52 PM   #22
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dry ice



let sit for 10 to 15 minutes then hit with rubber matlet. You can pick the pieces up off the floor like so

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Old 07-04-2009, 01:22 AM   #23
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i used ice cubes

make sure they are square cubes, not sickle shaped


must be a perfect cube. it has to do with the geometry of the cube and the vibrations it induces into the chassis, causes the sound deadening to lift right off


amazing, really.
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Old 07-04-2009, 04:43 AM   #24
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^^^^^ mike is kidding by the way.

Dry ice is best although I've never tried it.

I'm a man. I just did it with a hammer, chisel, and elbow grease.

Just make sure you get the elbow grease from Kragens and not Autozone.

Its in a pink bottle.
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Old 07-04-2009, 04:54 AM   #25
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damn no wonder i had a hard time

i got the blue bottle
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Old 07-04-2009, 08:16 AM   #26
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Man removing that tar stuff is so time consuming and lame.
I used hammer and chisel method on a few different cars.
AGHHHH
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Old 07-04-2009, 01:14 PM   #27
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i used ice cubes

make sure they are square cubes, not sickle shaped


must be a perfect cube. it has to do with the geometry of the cube and the vibrations it induces into the chassis, causes the sound deadening to lift right off


amazing, really.
Quote:
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^^^^^ mike is kidding by the way.

Dry ice is best although I've never tried it.
yeah........ dry ice cubes....


thats what i said, no?



ice cubes....... the dry ones. you gotta wait till they dry though
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Old 07-04-2009, 01:24 PM   #28
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if you use no dry ice it will leave sticky glue behind you will have to sand and scrape all of it off. basically you would have to go over the car twice once to get like 80 percent of it off then go back with a sander or paint scraper


plus one for dry ice. it freezes everything including the glue under it and it comes right off....you do need to leave the ice on for a bit tho.
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Old 07-05-2009, 02:30 PM   #29
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while we're on the topic. did any of you find getting the tar off the rear fender wells was harder then the rest?? thats the only part I have left to do. dry ice just didn't seem to work on that part
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Old 07-05-2009, 03:09 PM   #30
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I just removed my sound deadening material...I used dry ice and some places its easy as pie, but other places (like mentioned above) the fender wells is harder. Just have to be patient and apply enough pressure for the ice to lay against the surface.

I used "Goo Off" or something like that to remove the residue left over.

I would not do it again unless someone paid me, or wait till winter. LoL
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