Subframe bushing removel - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

*s13.dark1* · 05-13-2009, 01:25 PM

so how did you remove stock bushings?

ive seen fire used has anyone taked them off differently.

aznpoopy · 05-13-2009, 01:31 PM

burn it out as much as you can, then cut through the remaining metal collar with a sawzall. be careful not to notch the subframe.

once the metal collar has been cut through, wedge something into the cut to peel the first edge away from the surface. then jam a screw driver (and eventually a pry bar) in there, and go around and pry until you have a good portion of it loose. then hit it with a hammer and it should pop out.

Marcus · 05-13-2009, 01:34 PM

torch the bushing till its nice and hot.

remove the center sleeve with vice-grips.

CAREFULLY hacksaw the casing. be sure not to cut into the subframe itself.

then use a flat head and a hammer to pound/pry out the bushing.
once the casing is cut, it will collapse and the bushing will pop right out.
it can be done in an hour or two, if you know what you're doing. BUT expect to spend about half an hour on the first one if you've never removed bushings before.

you can use a press, but you can easily deform the subframe.

BTW, did you buy some PSM solid sf risers? they are AWESOMETOWN.

you will feel your diff in your ass

*brndck* · 05-13-2009, 01:44 PM

i "taked" them off with fire. then an air chisel for the outer.

*s13.dark1* · 05-13-2009, 02:36 PM

fire plus some cutting tool seems to work best im actully doing it right now, torch saw long flat tip as the pry bar it seems to be going well.

ima going to install cuirct sports alum spacers any feed back on them while we r on the subject?

aznpoopy · 05-13-2009, 02:40 PM

wait. what?

aluminum spacers supplement stock bushings. if you want to use spacers you should retain the stock bushings.

jholman05 · 05-13-2009, 03:11 PM

I did it just like the first two guys who replied did. Took a while but they all came out after a while. I used a delrin subframing bushing that I'm having a hard time finding right now, I think they were around $60 for all four. I love them, after replacing those, all the rest of the bushings with a prothane kit, and having new inner/outer tie rods and front lover ball joints the car handles better than what I would expect from the factory.

essforteen · 05-13-2009, 03:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by s13.dark1

fire plus some cutting tool seems to work best im actully doing it right now, torch saw long flat tip as the pry bar it seems to be going well.

ima going to install cuirct sports alum spacers any feed back on them while we r on the subject?

Uh O!! Your supposed to keep your stock bushings if you use spacers, you remove them if your using solid bushings which are different!!

*s13.dark1* · 05-13-2009, 04:12 PM

the bushings where bad so i was just going to put new bushings in along with the spacers or should i just put in solid ones

xdarkrune · 05-13-2009, 04:41 PM

just get the PBM subframe risers and call it a day.

aznpoopy · 05-13-2009, 05:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by s13.dark1

the bushings where bad so i was just going to put new bushings in along with the spacers or should i just put in solid ones

if you put in new bushings, you don't need the spacers. it's one or the other.

Marcus · 05-13-2009, 05:48 PM

ohh shit. i think you messed up.

just buy these from them do this and be done.

cchhyyeaaaah baby. Blang blang

*WakeBHR* · 05-13-2009, 05:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marcus

just buy these from them do this and be done.

cchhyyeaaaah baby. Blang blang

daaamnn epileptic much? paint looks clean but thats a damn fuzzy pic. kinda makes me wanna repaint mine tho

Bigsyke · 05-13-2009, 06:04 PM

Where you get the solid bushings?

OP failed, do not get spacers, even with new OEM because the spacers will just rip the new ones to shreds.

Easy way to remove OEM bushings is heat up area around bushing, along with torching the fcuk out the the rubber, take a nice long hard candle and shove it in and around the metal casing area to penetrate, to further lube the removal of the casings.

If the OEM bushings are still intact, and youve broken the bond with the subframe, you can use a monster cock hammer and a massive socket and pound it out. Use enough lube i.e pbblaster+candle wax and you should beble to pipe that bitch down hard enough to slide the bushing right out.

aznpoopy · 05-13-2009, 06:55 PM

that looks pretty awesome!
i just por-15'd the subframe i'm going to install. now i'm thinking i should paint it.

Bumnah · 05-13-2009, 07:00 PM

Burn the bushings out and cut like everyone says. It works pretty well, and is relatively painless.

I had mine sand blasted and powder coated lime green. Link to pics in my sig.

Marcus · 05-13-2009, 08:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WakeBHR

daaamnn epileptic much? paint looks clean but thats a damn fuzzy pic. kinda makes me wanna repaint mine tho

LOL my bad, i was actually falling while i took that pic. hah

OP:::hope this was of help. what kind of bushings did you buy to replace the old ones?

iirc, the sf spacers only work with oe bushings right?
i got the solid subframe risers from POWEREDBYMAX. they actually push up your subframe and help correct suspension geometry. RUSTOLEUM FTW lol

*johngriff* · 05-13-2009, 09:18 PM

Man, replacing the subframe bushings is such a mess, you can do it quick but it really is allot of labor.

and I hate loosing goose rear ends too...

clark · 05-13-2009, 09:30 PM

I just did this and i removed the stock ones using a torch, but i didn't melt the shit out, you heat up the outside of the subframe so you make the metal hot enough you can loosen the bond between the rubber bushing and metal.

it does take time and patience, but yeah, of course it's gonna take time if you want to do it right and feel accomplished.

too me 7 hours.

so just get a regular torch from home depot.

drop the subframe.

just heat up the outside as good as you can with the torch to loosen the bond. just jimmy a screw driver in there and pick it out, again each one takes around an hour.

then get a drill and a wire wheel to buff the inside to remove all the rubber that is still stuck.

LET ME MAKE THIS VERY CLEAR, IF YOU USE THE ENERGY SUSPENSION POLY BUSHING REPLACEMENTS (NOT INSERTS) YOU MUST NOT DAMAGE THE OUTER SHELL OF THE BUSHING IF YOU HAVE AN S13. I REPEAT, DO NOT BE A DOOSH AND DAMAGE THE OUTER SHELL OF THE ORIGINAL BUSHING IF YOU HAVE AN S13.

if anyone has a question about this please feel free to PM me, i went through the process recently and it was actually very painless because i had the proper tools and patience.

oh yeah, my rear is friggin TIGHT now.

s13tilldeath* · 05-13-2009, 09:39 PM

Torch the bitches.
dont use spacers and new bushings. If you want a stiff ride get aluminum bushings ftw.

*johngriff* · 05-13-2009, 09:55 PM

7 Hours!

Holy hell, thats a long time..

Marcus · 05-13-2009, 10:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johngriff

7 Hours!

Holy hell, thats a long time..

hell yea thats long. may have been his first time.
got mine out in about an hour.

you dont need to clean the casing of the bushing itself, just enough to get a blade in to cut it.

jamg · 05-13-2009, 10:38 PM

at my local shop, they charge 500 for a full bushing swap.

worth it?

projectRDM · 05-13-2009, 10:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clark

LET ME MAKE THIS VERY CLEAR, IF YOU USE THE ENERGY SUSPENSION POLY BUSHING REPLACEMENTS (NOT INSERTS) YOU MUST NOT DAMAGE THE OUTER SHELL OF THE BUSHING IF YOU HAVE AN S13. I REPEAT, DO NOT BE A DOUCHE AND DAMAGE THE OUTER SHELL OF THE ORIGINAL BUSHING IF YOU HAVE AN S13.

Same for S14. And Z32.

*murda-c* · 05-13-2009, 10:51 PM

Is that just subframe or all the bushings.

turbo_dreams · 05-14-2009, 08:57 AM

If i do use a solid subframe spacer (pdm), what's the outcome? I already have solid subframe spacers, and my bushings are shot, you guys suggest i just slide the solid spacers in or do the bushings?

*enkei2k* · 05-14-2009, 08:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jamg

at my local shop, they charge 500 for a full bushing swap.

worth it?

does it includes parts and labor? i got a quote for about 300 for labor only. then again, i'm pretty sure he was just messing with me and if i do actually do it, it'll be more lol.

oneviaman · 05-14-2009, 09:21 AM

i use an ingersol, with the cutting blade

SILVIA_KIDs14.5 · 05-14-2009, 09:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by s13.dark1

the bushings where bad so i was just going to put new bushings in along with the spacers or should i just put in solid ones

go solid and call it a day never again have to replace them it would though have ben easier to get the bushings pressed out

clark · 05-14-2009, 09:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oneviaman

i use an ingersol, with the cutting blade

oh shit i gotta get one of those haha.

yeah i mean i'm talking 7 hours start to finish meaning start the clock at jacking the car up, stop the clock at getting the car on all 4 wheels.

i was by myself so it's hard to fenagle the subframe back up there.

yeah i don't know why these poly bushings don't have more popularity. i mean yeah, aluminum ones are awesome, but these are fantastic too.

05-13-2009, 01:25 PM	#1
s13.dark1 Premium Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: oakland Posts: 282 Trader Rating: (3)	Subframe bushing removel so how did you remove stock bushings? ive seen fire used has anyone taked them off differently. __________________ *you better cut, weld, and paste that sh!t* http://zilvia.net/f/sale-items/24340...kets-more.html

05-13-2009, 01:34 PM	#3
Marcus Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Paradise Hills, SD Age: 39 Posts: 1,210 Trader Rating: (12)	torch the bushing till its nice and hot. remove the center sleeve with vice-grips. CAREFULLY hacksaw the casing. be sure not to cut into the subframe itself. then use a flat head and a hammer to pound/pry out the bushing. once the casing is cut, it will collapse and the bushing will pop right out. it can be done in an hour or two, if you know what you're doing. BUT expect to spend about half an hour on the first one if you've never removed bushings before. you can use a press, but you can easily deform the subframe. BTW, did you buy some PSM solid sf risers? they are AWESOMETOWN. you will feel your diff in your ass __________________ ==SPEED ALLIANCE==

05-13-2009, 01:44 PM	#4
brndck fwuffy bunny rigor mortis Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: costa mesa, ca Age: 27 Posts: 3,152 Trader Rating: (27) Rides Gallery: brndck	i "taked" them off with fire. then an air chisel for the outer. __________________ I am the future Eric Castro http://outslidersandsmokeproduce.blogspot.com/

05-13-2009, 02:36 PM	#5
s13.dark1 Premium Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: oakland Posts: 282 Trader Rating: (3)	fire plus some cutting tool seems to work best im actully doing it right now, torch saw long flat tip as the pry bar it seems to be going well. ima going to install cuirct sports alum spacers any feed back on them while we r on the subject? __________________ *you better cut, weld, and paste that sh!t* http://zilvia.net/f/sale-items/24340...kets-more.html

05-13-2009, 04:12 PM	#9
s13.dark1 Premium Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: oakland Posts: 282 Trader Rating: (3)	the bushings where bad so i was just going to put new bushings in along with the spacers or should i just put in solid ones __________________ *you better cut, weld, and paste that sh!t* http://zilvia.net/f/sale-items/24340...kets-more.html

Sponsored Links
Remove these by purchasing a Premium Membership with Zilvia.net!

05-13-2009, 01:31 PM	#2
aznpoopy Post Whore! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: New Jersey Age: 29 Posts: 4,800 Trader Rating: (1)	burn it out as much as you can, then cut through the remaining metal collar with a sawzall. be careful not to notch the subframe. once the metal collar has been cut through, wedge something into the cut to peel the first edge away from the surface. then jam a screw driver (and eventually a pry bar) in there, and go around and pry until you have a good portion of it loose. then hit it with a hammer and it should pop out.

05-13-2009, 02:40 PM	#6
aznpoopy Post Whore! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: New Jersey Age: 29 Posts: 4,800 Trader Rating: (1)	wait. what? aluminum spacers supplement stock bushings. if you want to use spacers you should retain the stock bushings.

05-13-2009, 03:11 PM	#7
jholman05 Leaky Injector Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Brookville, IN Age: 22 Posts: 119 Trader Rating: (1)	I did it just like the first two guys who replied did. Took a while but they all came out after a while. I used a delrin subframing bushing that I'm having a hard time finding right now, I think they were around $60 for all four. I love them, after replacing those, all the rest of the bushings with a prothane kit, and having new inner/outer tie rods and front lover ball joints the car handles better than what I would expect from the factory.

05-13-2009, 05:48 PM	#12
Marcus Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Paradise Hills, SD Age: 39 Posts: 1,210 Trader Rating: (12)	ohh shit. i think you messed up. just buy these from them do this and be done. cchhyyeaaaah baby. Blang blang __________________ ==SPEED ALLIANCE==

05-13-2009, 06:04 PM	#14
Bigsyke Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: NA Age: 25 Posts: 1,207 Trader Rating: (0)	Where you get the solid bushings? OP failed, do not get spacers, even with new OEM because the spacers will just rip the new ones to shreds. Easy way to remove OEM bushings is heat up area around bushing, along with torching the fcuk out the the rubber, take a nice long hard candle and shove it in and around the metal casing area to penetrate, to further lube the removal of the casings. If the OEM bushings are still intact, and youve broken the bond with the subframe, you can use a monster cock hammer and a massive socket and pound it out. Use enough lube i.e pbblaster+candle wax and you should beble to pipe that bitch down hard enough to slide the bushing right out.

05-13-2009, 06:55 PM	#15
aznpoopy Post Whore! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: New Jersey Age: 29 Posts: 4,800 Trader Rating: (1)	that looks pretty awesome! i just por-15'd the subframe i'm going to install. now i'm thinking i should paint it.

05-13-2009, 07:00 PM	#16
Bumnah Leaky Injector Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: VA Posts: 127 Trader Rating: (1)	Burn the bushings out and cut like everyone says. It works pretty well, and is relatively painless. I had mine sand blasted and powder coated lime green. Link to pics in my sig.

05-13-2009, 09:18 PM	#18
johngriff @RPSport.net! Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Long Beach, CA Posts: 4,042 Trader Rating: (4) Rides Gallery: johngriff	Man, replacing the subframe bushings is such a mess, you can do it quick but it really is allot of labor. and I hate loosing goose rear ends too... __________________ RPSport 949.891.1710 RPSport's New Products for the S13 and SR20! Join our Haltech Group Buy! John@RPSport.net

05-13-2009, 09:30 PM	#19
clark Zilvia Addict Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: new york Posts: 902 Trader Rating: (0)	I just did this and i removed the stock ones using a torch, but i didn't melt the shit out, you heat up the outside of the subframe so you make the metal hot enough you can loosen the bond between the rubber bushing and metal. it does take time and patience, but yeah, of course it's gonna take time if you want to do it right and feel accomplished. too me 7 hours. so just get a regular torch from home depot. drop the subframe. just heat up the outside as good as you can with the torch to loosen the bond. just jimmy a screw driver in there and pick it out, again each one takes around an hour. then get a drill and a wire wheel to buff the inside to remove all the rubber that is still stuck. LET ME MAKE THIS VERY CLEAR, IF YOU USE THE ENERGY SUSPENSION POLY BUSHING REPLACEMENTS (NOT INSERTS) YOU MUST NOT DAMAGE THE OUTER SHELL OF THE BUSHING IF YOU HAVE AN S13. I REPEAT, DO NOT BE A DOOSH AND DAMAGE THE OUTER SHELL OF THE ORIGINAL BUSHING IF YOU HAVE AN S13. if anyone has a question about this please feel free to PM me, i went through the process recently and it was actually very painless because i had the proper tools and patience. oh yeah, my rear is friggin TIGHT now.

05-13-2009, 09:39 PM	#20
s13tilldeath* Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Virginia Posts: 439 Trader Rating: (3)	Torch the bitches. dont use spacers and new bushings. If you want a stiff ride get aluminum bushings ftw. __________________ "Im a god mother fucker and its judgement day!"

05-13-2009, 09:55 PM	#21
johngriff @RPSport.net! Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Long Beach, CA Posts: 4,042 Trader Rating: (4) Rides Gallery: johngriff	7 Hours! Holy hell, thats a long time.. __________________ RPSport 949.891.1710 RPSport's New Products for the S13 and SR20! Join our Haltech Group Buy! John@RPSport.net

05-13-2009, 10:38 PM	#23
jamg Zilvia Junkie Join Date: May 2009 Location: GA Posts: 448 Trader Rating: (0)	at my local shop, they charge 500 for a full bushing swap. worth it?

05-13-2009, 10:51 PM	#25
murda-c Has a Premium Member. Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: deep inside...MoCo, MD Age: 21 Posts: 2,443 Trader Rating: (0)	Is that just subframe or all the bushings. __________________

05-14-2009, 08:57 AM	#26
turbo_dreams Zilvia Addict Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: queens, n.y Age: 19 Posts: 659 Trader Rating: (5)	If i do use a solid subframe spacer (pdm), what's the outcome? I already have solid subframe spacers, and my bushings are shot, you guys suggest i just slide the solid spacers in or do the bushings? __________________ Raman noodles Lifestyle.

05-14-2009, 09:21 AM	#28
oneviaman Leaky Injector Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: oakland park,fl Age: 24 Posts: 100 Trader Rating: (0)	i use an ingersol, with the cutting blade

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode