Subframe bushing removel - Page 2 - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

clark · 05-14-2009, 09:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SILVIA_KIDs14.5

go solid and call it a day never again have to replace them it would though have ben easier to get the bushings pressed out

you're wrong, you can't just "press em out".

this isn't' a control arm bushing or something.

the subrame is massive in relation to things that you normally press bushings in and out of.

energy suspension's published recommendation is to use a torch to heat up the outer casing so the rubber "slides" out. they specifically say NOT to use a press.

projectRDM · 05-14-2009, 09:42 AM

Agreed. using a press is possible, however you need at minimum a 20 ton model, two other people to help hold the subframe, and prayers that you don't deform the forward mounting points when the load comes down and starts pressing. Torching is far easier.

DC Dan MAX USA · 05-14-2009, 08:10 PM

IMHO the airsaw is the best because you will die a toxic death burning it.

You can do it with an air saw, you poke the sawblade in the cavity in the OEM bushing and cut a slit in the outer ring OF THE BUSHING being careful not to cut the subframe ring. It helps to saw a little from the top side and a little from the bottom side. Once the slit is cut shove a big flat head screw driver in there and once the tension of the bushing's outer ring is compromised, it just pops right out.

we burned this one out just to show you clearly what you need to cut

MAX PRODUCTS FORUM - SUBFRAME RISER

projectRDM · 05-14-2009, 08:21 PM

No one is going to die a toxic death unless they stand over it and breath while it burns. You torch it, walk away and eat lunch, come back after the fire has gone out. If that worries you, stand a good distance and watch, but it's not like the fire will continue and melt the subframe. It's steel. Have to be a little hotter to do any damage. Once the bushing falls out on it's own you throw a hose on it, done.

bing · 05-14-2009, 09:09 PM

BFC - big fucking chisel
BFH - big fucking hammer

that is all.

*s13.dark1* · 05-15-2009, 10:40 AM

hopefully this thread is helpfull to someone that want isnt really sure and wanted to get info plus pics great job all!

Lith · 05-15-2009, 04:30 PM

What I did is this; I bought another S14 subframe and I got a local shop to take out the bushings. Then I sandblasted/powder coated the subframe. Got the same shop to press in the new bushings. Also, that included the diff bushings on the subframe (S14's have this, S13's don't).
I ended up paying 100 bucks for the shop to take out the bushings and press in new ones.. and another 100 bucks for sandblasting and powder coating and the subframe was 50 bucks. So that's 250 bucks.. imo, well worth it since this is a quite a bit of work for one person.
Also, the bushings I got are the nismo ones, but I don't recall what I paid for them. Needless to say, car feels much better w/o that lose subframe in the back.

hegamiz · 05-15-2009, 09:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by s13.dark1

hopefully this thread is helpfull to someone that want isnt really sure and wanted to get info plus pics great job all!

hahaha definitely... i haven't gotten that far into my first project, reading this shed some light on what to avoid lol

drift Kid · 05-16-2009, 10:08 AM

awesome thread.. what should the drifter guys go with that has the welded diff.. my bushing is beyond shot.. solid or regular bushing like the enegry suspension kits.. i really dont want to use spacers..

*s13.dark1* · 07-13-2009, 02:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drift Kid

awesome thread.. what should the drifter guys go with that has the welded diff.. my bushing is beyond shot.. solid or regular bushing like the enegry suspension kits.. i really dont want to use spacers..

go with solid bushings

Bigsyke · 07-13-2009, 05:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by projectRDM

No one is going to die a toxic death unless they stand over it and breath while it burns. You torch it, walk away and eat lunch, come back after the fire has gone out. If that worries you, stand a good distance and watch, but it's not like the fire will continue and melt the subframe. It's steel. Have to be a little hotter to do any damage. Once the bushing falls out on it's own you throw a hose on it, done.

I had to stand over all 4 because the fire kept going out. I had to use a screw driver and churn the rubber so the flame could be exposed to new rubber.

Thought I was going to die the next day, my sinus's were caked with rubber and everytime I blew my nose it would be pure black goo.

Man and to think im going to have to do that again when i get another S14. Worth it though!

projectRDM · 07-13-2009, 06:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bigsyke

I had to stand over all 4 because the fire kept going out. I had to use a screw driver and churn the rubber so the flame could be exposed to new rubber.

Thought I was going to die the next day, my sinus's were caked with rubber and everytime I blew my nose it would be pure black goo.

Man and to think im going to have to do that again when i get another S14. Worth it though!

Fire wasn't hot enough. Use some gas to get it going. It will take care of itself.

Lev · 07-13-2009, 06:44 PM

Having just done this last weekend, you don't need fire. You don't even need to remove the subframe. Here is how we did it at a mechanic's shop:

1. Unbolt stuff until you can lower two of the subframe bushings clear of the bolts. You need to disconnect stuff but it will not affect your alignment. I believe it was just the coilover, and one l-shaped piece of metal as well as the subframe. I don't remember all the specifict but I do remember that we didn't have to drop the driveshaft or disconnect any control arms (so no need for a new alignment). The driver side we had to drop the back half of the exhaust. One thing to watch out for is that you don't push down too hard on the subframe because you dont' want to snap your brake lines, 2 inches past the bolt should be plenty of room anyway.
2. Once you are clear of the bolt, use a sharp object to pierce the center rubber portion.
3. Use a wood bit on the sawzall to cut out most of the rubber center.
4. Put on a metal bit and cut through both metal cylinders of the subframe bushing, careful as to not cut the subframe ring of course. Three cuts should do it.
5. Run an air chisel up the cuts and the bushing should fall right out as soon as you release tension.
6. Clean out the subframe ring with a course than a fine wire brush
7. If you have poly bushings, which you probably should get (personal opinion though only) they should just slide in. I used PowerFlex Street polyurethane bushings and they slid right in without any lube or anything.

Obviously for this method you need access to a lift or a way to get the rear end up high enough for sawzall clearance and an air chisel. We used an 18v dewalt sawzall so you don't need anything incredibly fancy. The entire job took about 3 hours, but that's because it took until the second bushing to figure out the best way to do it (the first bushing took like 1.5 hours lol).

Edit: This is on an S14 subframe, I don't think the S13 is too different.

Bigsyke · 07-13-2009, 06:48 PM

^^^Apologies, but that wont work with solids.

*ixfxi* · 07-13-2009, 09:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bigsyke

I had to stand over all 4 because the fire kept going out. I had to use a screw driver and churn the rubber so the flame could be exposed to new rubber.

Thought I was going to die the next day, my sinus's were caked with rubber and everytime I blew my nose it would be pure black goo.

Man and to think im going to have to do that again when i get another S14. Worth it though!

Quote:

Originally Posted by projectRDM

Fire wasn't hot enough. Use some gas to get it going. It will take care of itself.

hahah russ, syke probably was using matches. :-)

seriously, propane torch brotha... its all thats needed.

Lev · 07-14-2009, 03:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bigsyke

^^^Apologies, but that wont work with solids.

Didn't know that. Regardless though, unless you are using a bushing that requires a press (OEM I think, but why would you do that? or a solid bushing, which 99% of people don't need) the method that I outlined above will work and will be a hell of a lot easier and cheaper than removing the subframe, disconnecting everything on and around it, burning out the rubber then cutting the metal ring, reinstalling everything and then having to take the car in for alignment (my method doesn't mess with any alignment related arms).

05-14-2009, 09:42 AM	#32
projectRDM Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Atlanta Age: 35 Posts: 13,031 Trader Rating: (12)	Agreed. using a press is possible, however you need at minimum a 20 ton model, two other people to help hold the subframe, and prayers that you don't deform the forward mounting points when the load comes down and starts pressing. Torching is far easier. __________________ FORMERLY R240NA Learn what's really going on and protect your assets now before they're gone forever: www.paypalsucks.com

05-14-2009, 08:10 PM	#33
DC Dan MAX USA Zilvia.net Advertiser Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: San Diego Posts: 1,435 Trader Rating: (39)	IMHO the airsaw is the best because you will die a toxic death burning it. You can do it with an air saw, you poke the sawblade in the cavity in the OEM bushing and cut a slit in the outer ring OF THE BUSHING being careful not to cut the subframe ring. It helps to saw a little from the top side and a little from the bottom side. Once the slit is cut shove a big flat head screw driver in there and once the tension of the bushing's outer ring is compromised, it just pops right out. we burned this one out just to show you clearly what you need to cut MAX PRODUCTS FORUM - SUBFRAME RISER __________________ #1 FAQ: How To order: (A) Ask me for a parts quote with shipping to your postal code (B) Send payment to maxusa@poweredbymax.net on www.paypal.com (C) Please write the item description in the "Email to recipient" notes section

05-14-2009, 08:21 PM	#34
projectRDM Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Atlanta Age: 35 Posts: 13,031 Trader Rating: (12)	No one is going to die a toxic death unless they stand over it and breath while it burns. You torch it, walk away and eat lunch, come back after the fire has gone out. If that worries you, stand a good distance and watch, but it's not like the fire will continue and melt the subframe. It's steel. Have to be a little hotter to do any damage. Once the bushing falls out on it's own you throw a hose on it, done. __________________ FORMERLY R240NA Learn what's really going on and protect your assets now before they're gone forever: www.paypalsucks.com

05-14-2009, 09:09 PM	#35
bing Post Whore! Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: ontario canada Posts: 2,503 Trader Rating: (11)	BFC - big fucking chisel BFH - big fucking hammer that is all. __________________ CHEAPEST ANYWHERE::: screamer pipes, sway bar endlinks, turbo elbows, solid bushings and more http://zilvia.net/f/advertiser-speci...hings-etc.html www.bings.ca www.son240sx.org www.torontonissan.ca www.onyxsyndicate.com

05-15-2009, 10:40 AM	#36
s13.dark1 Premium Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: oakland Posts: 282 Trader Rating: (3)	hopefully this thread is helpfull to someone that want isnt really sure and wanted to get info plus pics great job all! __________________ *you better cut, weld, and paste that sh!t* http://zilvia.net/f/sale-items/24340...kets-more.html

05-15-2009, 04:30 PM	#37
Lith Leaky Injector Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Toronto, ON Age: 29 Posts: 145 Trader Rating: (0)	What I did is this; I bought another S14 subframe and I got a local shop to take out the bushings. Then I sandblasted/powder coated the subframe. Got the same shop to press in the new bushings. Also, that included the diff bushings on the subframe (S14's have this, S13's don't). I ended up paying 100 bucks for the shop to take out the bushings and press in new ones.. and another 100 bucks for sandblasting and powder coating and the subframe was 50 bucks. So that's 250 bucks.. imo, well worth it since this is a quite a bit of work for one person. Also, the bushings I got are the nismo ones, but I don't recall what I paid for them. Needless to say, car feels much better w/o that lose subframe in the back.

05-16-2009, 10:08 AM	#39
drift Kid Leaky Injector Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: NC Charlotte Age: 22 Posts: 94 Trader Rating: (0)	awesome thread.. what should the drifter guys go with that has the welded diff.. my bushing is beyond shot.. solid or regular bushing like the enegry suspension kits.. i really dont want to use spacers.. __________________ Drift Menace'

07-13-2009, 06:44 PM	#43
Lev Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Ohio Posts: 39 Trader Rating: (1)	Having just done this last weekend, you don't need fire. You don't even need to remove the subframe. Here is how we did it at a mechanic's shop: 1. Unbolt stuff until you can lower two of the subframe bushings clear of the bolts. You need to disconnect stuff but it will not affect your alignment. I believe it was just the coilover, and one l-shaped piece of metal as well as the subframe. I don't remember all the specifict but I do remember that we didn't have to drop the driveshaft or disconnect any control arms (so no need for a new alignment). The driver side we had to drop the back half of the exhaust. One thing to watch out for is that you don't push down too hard on the subframe because you dont' want to snap your brake lines, 2 inches past the bolt should be plenty of room anyway. 2. Once you are clear of the bolt, use a sharp object to pierce the center rubber portion. 3. Use a wood bit on the sawzall to cut out most of the rubber center. 4. Put on a metal bit and cut through both metal cylinders of the subframe bushing, careful as to not cut the subframe ring of course. Three cuts should do it. 5. Run an air chisel up the cuts and the bushing should fall right out as soon as you release tension. 6. Clean out the subframe ring with a course than a fine wire brush 7. If you have poly bushings, which you probably should get (personal opinion though only) they should just slide in. I used PowerFlex Street polyurethane bushings and they slid right in without any lube or anything. Obviously for this method you need access to a lift or a way to get the rear end up high enough for sawzall clearance and an air chisel. We used an 18v dewalt sawzall so you don't need anything incredibly fancy. The entire job took about 3 hours, but that's because it took until the second bushing to figure out the best way to do it (the first bushing took like 1.5 hours lol). Edit: This is on an S14 subframe, I don't think the S13 is too different.

07-13-2009, 06:48 PM	#44
Bigsyke Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: NA Age: 25 Posts: 1,207 Trader Rating: (0)	^^^Apologies, but that wont work with solids.

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