98koukile

Anyone else lose all tweeter noise with the window open? I'm sure its more the wind noise interfering than anything but is there anyway to compensate for that with a different tweeter placement? The other thing I wanna do is move my rear speakers off the deck and onto the rear side trim for more sound quality

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GSXRJJordan

You didn't show your speaker setup AT ALL. And btw your harness setup is unsafe as hell.

Read my post! I have exactly what you're looking to upgrade to.

Yeah I run a home-audio/stereophile quality potentiometer up front (under my seat bracket) wired into the tweeter leads, after the crossover. My crossovers have a -0db "main tweeter" output meant for tweeter placed off-axis to the listener, and a -6db "image tweeter" output for tweeters placed on-axis... since mine are +- 5* off axis, I would normally run the tweets on the "image" output, but with the pot on there, I can run them on the "main" output for when the windows are down (and only turn the pot down about 10% for optimal tweeter volume), then when I roll the windows up, I turn it down even more. Works great Another suggestion from Devin Oliver @ Audio Advice in La Crescenta.

Seriously, PM me if anyone's interested in getting a good sound system put together - I love SQ setups!!!

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Cash

Pioneer AVIC D1 navi head unit

Infiniti reference 6.5 speakers

Alpine R12 sub with alpine amp

walmart sub enclosure

nani

What is the difference between an open sub box and a sealed one?

munkfu

Kenwood Excelon HU *might change it soon*

CDT ES-650 6.5" Components speakers
Nakamichi PA-2100 for speakers

Alpine Type-S 12" Sub w/ sealed box
JL Audio E1400 for subs

kinda basic but sounds very good.

GSXRJJordan

Open sub box, meaning free-air mount? Or open sub box meaning vented/ported?

Subs work based off air pressure - a magnet energizes a coil, moving the cone, changing the air pressure in front and behind that cone, making sound. The speaker is brought back to rest by the "suspension", meaning the rubber surround. Still with me?

Most speakers have more powerful voice coils than suspension, so they need the surrounding air to help hold the cone in the magnetic gap for optimum performance. Almost there...

Free air (or infinite baffle, as it's sometimes called) is where you mount the speaker with no enclosure, and therefore no suspension help from the air. This is fine for small drivers (tweeters, midrange, small subs) but doesn't work well when you want to play low. Don't free-air mount your sub.

A sealed box uses the air behind the speaker as a spring, making it less efficient, but allowing a smaller amount of air to do more "suspending"... i.e. smaller box size. Also, its kind of foolproof (just about any shape works, as long as the volume of air in the box is somewhere near correct).

A ported (or vented) box works on the principle that the speaker makes sound in front and behind the cone, so why waste the sound energy behind the cone by muffling it in a sealed space? You still need the air to act as suspension, though, so what you do is make a small hole that lets a specific volume of air work as suspension, while still allowing certain frequencies of sound waves behind the speaker to exit the box - the center of the frequency range is the tuning frequency of the box. Naturally, these boxes are more complicated, but are ALWAYS more efficient (more volume with less power) and almost always sound better.

Bandpass boxes are just ported boxes with another tuned/ported enclosure attached to the front of the speaker. More efficient still, but not as acoustically pleasing. dB drag pros use bandpass. SQ pros use vented/ported.

Edit: Here's a pic of my last ported enclosure for my SQ system in the 240. Soundstream Reference 10" (from back when Reference meant Audiophile) and a tiny Class A/AB hybrid (A on the hot side) Soundstream amp... note the sanded smooth ABS pipe, and shape of the box (wide, so the pipe/port has adequate clearance on the inside).


I hope people are bookmarking this, it's good shit.

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gmarzan

Clarion double din HU with 6.75 Bose rears and 5.25 Bose fronts/tweeters with Bose amplifier taken from a Q45. Wiring the amp was not that hard since I have the fsm for both cars and i'm an EE. The Bose system was free, so why not.

bo2o

headunit: alpine cda9857
front speakers: boston acoustics z6 components
amp: elemental designs nine.2x

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sillydrift

i have pioneer DEH7700 headunit and polk db components in the front powered by a 2 channel audiobahn amp and polk db coaxials in the rear, good bass response and no need for a sub

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carbonx240

grsxjjornad....nice job

ohsoslo

eclipse cd4000 head unit and boston s series speakers front/back....i live out of town and would go crazy without music, otherwise i would have thrown it all out a long time ago.

SicKesT

i wanted to know how shallow your speakers really have to be for a s13 hatch in the door. I was probably gunna go with alpine spr-17c and some infinity kappa 62.7i. I was just wondering if you guys had anything to warn me about or could tell if these might be too thick, i heard if the speakers in the door are too thick you can't roll down the window all the way. Any advice?

SicKesT

nvm i just found a website and if anyone else had this question for maximum depth fo any car look here.
Nissan 240SX Hatchback 89-93 Front Door 4 x 6 1 3/4 deep
Rear Side Shelves 4 x 6 5" Deep
http://cardiscountstereos.com/SpeakerGuide20.asp

wayneside

(2) 12 inch Fusion Powerplant subs
(2) 6.5 inch Fusion Powerplant components





This is my old set up...its all new now.

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cook22

i got a sony head unit with 2 10" explodes in the back, everything else is stock

swayray

my $10 speakers are being held by zipties... 6.5" up front and 5.5" at the back...

All i hear is treble... i have no bass... the bass is all in my head.... i heard benson said that's drifter style right there...

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MeSs

I have a pair of VDO 5,5".. Which i got for free.

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hellaflush

jvc avx805 double din 7" indash
250gb seagate 3.5" external usb hdd
4x DLS 2 way 6"

will post pics tonite

4bangers

for an S14 rear speaker what is the size? what is a good brand? I heard infinity is good

sliksta1

alpine CDA-9831
alpine type r 6.5 component system (front)
alpine type r 6x9 (rear)
i just need to get a 4 channel alpine amp.

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olah.inc

Clarion Dxz 958rmc
Amps: Signat lab2, Audison SRX2, Eton PA2802
Speaker: Eton A1 and RsAudio T25 Tweeter
Woofer: Peerless XXLS 12cw
complete fullactive

old pic

hellaflush

6" for s14 rears is perfect

depends if you pose or race... if you have no rear interior no matter what you do its not going to sound absolutely fantastic as it wont be enclosed... mine still sounds good with no interior still

down_shift

I was happy with all stock for years, but when I got $100 gift card my audiophile friend made me upgrade. 6.5 Infintys in the front and dirt cheap 6.5 Dual Audios in the rear. Sounds a lot better then my completely dry rotted ones.

BoostinGST

i have no stereo in my 240, my DD has 2 alpine type-r 12s, a 1200w jbl amp, kenwoods for mids/highs, and a panasonic head unit. its not too shabby, i bought alot more for the s14 to do a carputer setup but i dont want the extra weight now.

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miucus

blown stock speakers on all 4 corners with some cheap kenwood headunit

Dirty Habit

Stock casette, 4 blown speakers. Woo.

JRas

same except with a pioneer unit

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4bangers

so stock rear S14 speaker size is 6" is it a circular speaker? I thought the stock is more oval?

astrophixvox

6.5 w/ adapters
4x6 in the rear
Kenwood deck
Sub tube in the back

Nothing to crazy.

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ms!3

id love to just have a set of bose speakers. my car came with sony explods and they blow. haha

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