|07-14-2011, 08:38 AM||#35|
thanks everyone ! ive been meaning to upload pictures because ive started painting por-15 under the front wheel wells BUT i took my camera to jones beach the other day and i cant find it. idk if i misplaced it or it fell out of my bad. ... im continuing to look for it but expect an update soon !
|07-21-2011, 12:52 PM||#39|
Thanks to everyone who is following !
|07-21-2011, 01:22 PM||#41|
Alright everyone, it's took me a little while to get an update up but here it finally is... It's been hot as hell out these past two weeks and between working alot I've barely had any time to devote to my car.
As you guys know I'm been applying POR-15 throughout the entire underside of the chassis. I finally had the time the start applying it under the front wheel wells and along the frame rails.
I used 3M rubberized undercoating to seal up around the patches that we cut out around the strut towers and coat other little bare spots.
I laid down 3 coats on each side.
A few weeks ago I dropped off the subframes to the powdercoater's.. I finally got them back this morning. I was more than happy to see the outcome of them !
|07-23-2011, 02:54 PM||#44|
|07-23-2011, 04:56 PM||#45|
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: SO CAL
Trader Rating: (24)
Feedback Score: 24 reviews
subscribed. dude this is what u call attention to detail more people should take notes of this like the build.
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|07-27-2011, 08:50 PM||#47|
thanks guys !
While I get some more photos together of my process together, here is a sweet video from Drift Fraction's Lebanon Valley drift event that my friend Vinny made. Hope you guys enjoy it.
‪Lebanon Valley: Drift Faction Event‬‏ - YouTube
|07-30-2011, 02:36 AM||#48|
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: M-A-R-S... MARS BITCHES
Trader Rating: (33)
Feedback Score: 33 reviews
Hats off to you, normaly I do not read build threads, A matter of fact my own build thread was a joke compared to this. I would love to be able to dedicate this much attention to detail, I have the attention just not the time or the resources. Good job, I will be reading this every other day to keep up on it.
|08-12-2011, 08:35 PM||#51|
Last time I gave you guys an update I posted pictures of the subframes after they were powder coated... Well, going back a step I wanted to show everyone how I removed the bushings. Now there is probably a good chance most of you have seen this before on here or some other thread but for you new comers here ya go...
For removing the differential bushings you first want to burn/cut the centers out. Save these, you will need them if you use the Energy Suspension Bushings like I did. Unfortunately I don't have a picture of that but this is what you should have after you clean the centers out.
You should now be able to see a sleeve such as this.
Then I took a reciprocating saw and started carefully cutting into the sleeve.
When you get almost completely through, stop and then take a chisel and start to pry around the sleeve.
Eventually you will be able to break the metal sleeve and start overlapping the two sides. Then I slowly started working the sleeve out.
After the sleeves are removed you can then take a wire wheel and clean them up.
Energy Suspension Diff bushing set.
Going back to the centers you cut out, set fire to them and burn the remaining rubber off them. This is the inner sleeve that you will need.
The new bushings were then pressed in using a clamp and pieces of plywood.
The same process is used for the main subframe bushings too.
Sorry for all jumping around but while we were working on the subframes, we've also been prepping and painting the engine bay. I posted up a picture of the bay primed a while back but now we started to add some color! I didn't want to do anything too crazy so I kept it simple and choose to go with the OEM wk0 color (pearl white). It's a 3-stage pearl job so, first was to lay down the base, then the pearlescent, and finally a clear. I also planned to repaint under the hood and the kouki sideskirts I had gotten way back when.
After the bay got primed we then wet-sanded it until it was all smooth.
After we hit it with wax and grease remover and a tact cloth, we started spraying using a HVLP gun.
Heres the first coat of base.
|08-12-2011, 08:47 PM||#52|
Today I went to CT to meet with Yury, the owner of Wiring Specialists. I picked up both a engine and tranny harness for a s14 zenki sr20det into a s14 chassis. I have to say I'm every please with the overall look of the harness and I couldn't be happier. Yury is a great guy to deal with and I thank him alot !
Last edited by S14Driftr91; 08-13-2011 at 12:35 AM..
|08-14-2011, 10:08 PM||#57|
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: king of prussia, PA!
Trader Rating: (12)
Feedback Score: 12 reviews
great job building her up so far! its always good to see people clean up all the rust and get them back to being perfect. keep up the good work.
F/S: Stoptech-HKS-Tomei-Greddy-350z+240sx Parts...TONS MORE!
|08-16-2011, 12:34 AM||#58|
Hey guys thanks for all the support! Loving the avatar Howie! Hahaha
Anyway on with the update...
This weekend we checked off a huge milestone off our list. We finally finished up painting the bay, along with the underside of the hood, and my set of kouki side skirts. For doing a 3-stage paint job in the garage, I'm happy to say I'm very pleased with it, especially since this was my first time ever using a gun lol. I used PPG products throughout most of the process, besides the primer, in which I used SEM high build self-etching primer. I talked to a clerk from the local auto body supplies store and he gave me alot of good tips I could use. He suggested that if it was my first time painting, that I should go purchase a cheap gun such as one from Habor Freight so I did just that and purchased two of their HVLP spray guns.
I ended up going through:
-1 quart of WK0 base = 2 quarts with reducer
-1 pint of pearl = 1 quart with reducer
-1 quart of clear + half pint of mid hardener
2 coats of base, 2 coats of pearl, 3 coats of clear.
Now we can finally start putting some stuff back together !
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