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| | #121 |
| Premium Member ![]() | Have you guys ever had a problem with neighbors complaining about the smell when painting outside?
__________________ Nagasaki Motors![]() Friends help you move. Real friends help you move bodies. |
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| | #122 | |
| Premium Flocker ![]() | Quote:
Suggest regular working hours during the week, and NOT during the weekend when the whole neighborhood has their houses open and walkin their dogs (year round for us in Cali) | |
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| | #123 |
| We're watching you. ![]() | All of my neighbors are cool as hell. This weekend is looking great as of today. Weather is said to be nice and warm. I think we're going to have car painted by Sunday afternoon... ![]()
__________________ ![]() -Angry Panda Fabrication - Fixing iDesigns shitty work since 2008. CrimsonRockett@blogspot Need body work/paint? PM me. |
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| | #125 |
| We're watching you. ![]() | Hot as fluckk today. Update tomorrow! Yay!
__________________ ![]() -Angry Panda Fabrication - Fixing iDesigns shitty work since 2008. CrimsonRockett@blogspot Need body work/paint? PM me. |
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| | #127 | |
| Premium Flocker ![]() | Quote:
Keepin it cheap of course. | |
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| | #128 |
| Premium Member ![]() | I need to ask something... When spraying base/clear, do you sand inbetween the base and clear? I thought you're supposed to follow up with clear shortly after the base without sanding it.. Someone on my local forum said base then sand 1k grit and THEN clear?.. Didn't make sense! Enlighten me! btw... weathers been acting up again, cold here once again. taking my engine to the machinist! ALSO: When do you have to paint with the stencil? |
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| | #129 |
| We're watching you. ![]() | So many delays, but i'll finally have a real update this weekend. ![]() ![]() Everything is ready...
__________________ ![]() -Angry Panda Fabrication - Fixing iDesigns shitty work since 2008. CrimsonRockett@blogspot Need body work/paint? PM me. |
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| | #131 |
| Post Whore! ![]() | i bought some Rage gold body filler.. didnt know evercoat had other fillers.. but ive used rage before on my s13 and I liked it, very easy to use.
__________________ Your a cocky forum whore, relax its just cars |
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| | #132 |
| Back to the Shadow Complex ![]() | OK I have a question for the experienced people. My passenger side needs work (driver side is mint). There's like 3-4 sizable dents as seen in the pic (sorry it's not the greatest shot). My first question is do I try and hammer them out from the inside first before trying filler? Second question is there is a dent on the door where the black strip, how do i fix that? Filler? Will it turn out OK? Or should I just get another door? Third I have some small dings in the roof. The dings are not creased. Should I fill those or try and hammer'em out first? I'm going to start working on my car this month even if it kills me. ![]() |
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| | #134 |
| We're watching you. ![]() | Heat it up and then try to push out the dent?
__________________ ![]() -Angry Panda Fabrication - Fixing iDesigns shitty work since 2008. CrimsonRockett@blogspot Need body work/paint? PM me. |
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| | #135 |
| Back to the Shadow Complex ![]() | That's what I'm gonna try doing. Come on 50 degree temps! |
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| | #136 |
| We're watching you. ![]() | Heat guns are very inexpensive. We bought ours for about $35-$40 at Home Depot. No update with paint as of yet. We took care of a lot more prepping over this entire weekend. How well the car is prepped is the most important part of paint. Gotta take our time...
__________________ ![]() -Angry Panda Fabrication - Fixing iDesigns shitty work since 2008. CrimsonRockett@blogspot Need body work/paint? PM me. |
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| | #137 |
| Premium Member ![]() | Ok "exitspeed", and anyone else this may benefit. -Hydraulic Porta Power- sample pic ![]() From $50 to $500 and worth every penny. Its a hand-pumped hydraulic system with different attachments, from extending rams too lcamping jaws. These things are rated in the "tons", so can manipulate body panels with ease. Take your corner panel for example. Instead of 100 hits from a body hammer, put this behind the panel and will slowly push the dent out. Using a block of 2x4 will help distribute the force over the entire area. For your roof dings, use the rubber ball add-on(see arrow) while applying pressure on the top of the roof.(special hint: a block of wood with a hole drilled out the size of the ding on the topside) And now Im gonna release this for premies only...................................... If you get a PortaPower and want to stretch or flare your fenders? ![]() Pipe welded to a cresent shape piece of metal with the same shaped piece of wood screwed the front. You should get the picture. Evenly pushed and flared fenders in about 10 minutes each............. with no body damage.
__________________ Need airline tickets?..... hit me up. Last edited by usajdm; 03-10-2008 at 10:25 PM. Reason: add-on |
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| | #138 |
| Premium Flocker ![]() | Heat, pull, hammer - you are still gonna have to fill and sand the fuck out of it. Body work is no joke. Ive got a stud welder, body hammers, an in-line air sander, and a DA sander just for stuff like that. All purchased way back when i was restoring a Ranchero. Even with all that equipment, there will still be imperfections that you will need to use filler on, and sand down. And id suggest the Evercoat products for that. Not trying to deter you, but ya need to know its alot of fucking work. First thing is to strip the entire area down to the bare metal. And you will want to make sure you take care of the body work rather quickly so that no rust sets in. Oh, and thats also why i purchased POR-15 marine clean and metal ready cleaners. To make sure the bare metal is preped perfectly for primer/paint. DO wish you were local, id let you have at all my equipment. |
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| | #139 |
| Back to the Shadow Complex ![]() | ^ Trust me, I wish I was local. Harbor freight has to a two stage heat gun for $9.99. So I'll pick that up. Should I pick up this from HF while I'm at it? ![]() Or one like this. ![]() I'm a pretty detail oriented person and real careful with stuff like this. I may not have ALL the tools, but if I can get the filler part down to a minimum with just a few tools that would be great. I'll def. make sure I prep the metal before I paint. I'll be using Marsglass for the filler since I have a gallon of it I purchased years ago. |
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| | #141 |
| Back to the Shadow Complex ![]() | Then I'll pick that set up and the heat gun. |
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| | #142 |
| We're watching you. ![]() | Have you considered going widebody? I mean, I'm totally against fiberglass(for the main fact that the slightest dip/accident can make your car look like shit), but going widebody would be a hell of a lot easier then hammering and pulling those dents out and trying to make everything even with filler. Have you seen those pictures of the widebody coupe on stock front fenders and bumpers? Edit: Here we go: ![]() ![]()
__________________ ![]() -Angry Panda Fabrication - Fixing iDesigns shitty work since 2008. CrimsonRockett@blogspot Need body work/paint? PM me. |
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| | #143 |
| Back to the Shadow Complex ![]() | I have thought about it, but I was looking at doing more of a nice modest restore. I also don't want to cut my actual fenders and get all into that. I really like stock rear fenders pulled. But I have the filler and the time. So I'll try it out. If I find it's gonna look like complete garbage, then rear overs will be exactly what I'll do. |
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| | #144 |
| We're watching you. ![]() | Gotta agree with the roll/pull. This coupe is by far the best i've ever seen. ![]() If he were to clean up the fenders with some filler and get some 180sx sideskirts..... Cream in the pants.
__________________ ![]() -Angry Panda Fabrication - Fixing iDesigns shitty work since 2008. CrimsonRockett@blogspot Need body work/paint? PM me. |
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| | #145 |
| Back to the Shadow Complex ![]() | I might just skip trying to repair the door. Longrain on here has a nice door for that I can get cheap. I'll probably be better off that way. It's champagne instead of white though. Would I take all the paint off before painting? Or is that color light enough I'd be ok painting it white? What do you guys think? |
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| | #146 |
| We're watching you. ![]() | You should be okay as long as you sand it down. You are laying down primer, right? You might as well spray the inside of the door as well to match the rest of the car. And make sure somebody helps you align the door. Had to learn that the hard way. Haha.
__________________ ![]() -Angry Panda Fabrication - Fixing iDesigns shitty work since 2008. CrimsonRockett@blogspot Need body work/paint? PM me. |
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| | #147 | |
| Back to the Shadow Complex ![]() | Quote:
I'm not looking forward to that actually. | |
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| | #148 |
| We're watching you. ![]() | The fender and front bumper are actually pretty easy. Front bumper, not by yourself. But, it's doable. The door, Someone has to hold it up while you bolt it on. After doing the door myself, i tried to close it...sat too low. Then, pushed it all the way up, tried to close it...sat too high. Fuck. Haha.
__________________ ![]() -Angry Panda Fabrication - Fixing iDesigns shitty work since 2008. CrimsonRockett@blogspot Need body work/paint? PM me. |
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| | #149 |
| Zilvia Addict ![]() | hey guys, i'll be venturing into this project next month as well, i already have everything i need except paint. i bought the resperator from TPC as listed in the OP last night, just wanted to let you guys know that starting tonight there is a sale for a respirator a lot cheaper. http://www.tool-sale.com/piece-respi...es-p-3201.html i've bought some small stuff from these guys before and got it in a timely manner. not sure how well it is, but i know there are people that want the cheapest they can buy since most of the time its one time use. i myself would rather trust 3m for my health then a no-name respirator though. |
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