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Originally Posted by G'z_Silvia  Just somewhat confused on the camber plate part. If i remove this will it add more neg camber to the wheel only if the bolts are worn, loose or stretched?? |
Regardless of the warn loose or stretched bolts, it may add negative camber because the spindle and or the strut have elongated holes that will change camber depending on the location you
"tightly" secured (tightened the bolts) the lower shock body to spindle. If the bolts are failing, the symptom is more negative camber and possible a clunking sound when corning under load.
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Originally Posted by G'z_Silvia Im guessing for the current setup, i should keep the bolts in to reduce give on the knuckle spindle? |
By keeping the bolt in, your rim/tire to body distance is increase to accommodate wider or poor offset wheels and keep them from rubbing the coilover. By doing this, you have to only rely on the upper camber plate for any camber adjustment.
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Originally Posted by G'z_Silvia ....and if i get some differint rims with a better offset below 20 or 15, would i be able to run them without the sketchy bolt between in knuckle and coil? |
that sounds about right for 9" wheels an a s13. someone please confirm the max wheel size and offset without spacers and correct camber.